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Newbie with an XJ, Update

W

Wander Motor

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Brig City Utah
Hey All,
Update & a question. I got the Zone 2" AAL successfully installed and with about 100 miles of shakedown and so far all is good except, I'm at exactly 3" higher in the rear (2" in front with the spacer, as advertised).
I've read an AAL will settle down but should I be concerned with drive shaft angle now? I had a little Wung-Wung noise from the rear at 65+ before but now it's a bit more amplified since the lift. Am I hearing the driveshaft protesting, the diff perhaps? Ya'l's thoughts are appreciated.
I got the Vintique Smoothies and hope to paint ASAP, when weather settles down next week.
I'll get pictures for ya Anak as soon as I can.
Thanks
 
Have you checked the angles? A non-sye (2 joint shaft) should be equal if not just a little more at the pinion.
 
I haven’t but I will RCP. I think about all I can do with that is eyeball with an angle protractor. I would think they would be close to same angles and there was no pitch induced to the diff by adding the leaf.
Do differing angles aggravate the drivetrain?
Another question, and I’ll reach out to Quadratec about it; if the height doesn’t settle down soon, should I consider clipping the ends of the added leaf to relieve some tension in order to drop it a bit?
 
You might want to lube the slip spline.

The next on the list is a sye!
 
You could try buying a few sacks of sand or gravel and loading those into the back. That would at least temporarily lower the rear end and you could assess what difference (if any) the angle change makes with regard to the noise. Leave the weight in there for a while and it might adjust your springs for you. Just don't put in so much weight you damage something.
 
Angle finder apps for the phone are fine if you have a side with no buttons. I just broke down and bought a decent digital/magnetic unit. The gravity operated ones work well too. Remember to measure your angle at its current location before you make adjustments. Unless of course you've got a perfectly level surface to put your rig on.
 
All great input Guys, I greatly appreciate it. Good idea Anak about adding some weight to “listen’ for a change in “feedback” from the drivetrain. It seems the consensus is the noise is due to a change in driveline angle; how about a transfer case drop? If so could I be faced with the horrors of spinning the welded nuts in frame/crossmember like the shackle mountings can suffer?
I specifically only wanted to go up two inches so I wouldn’t need to make other Mods that come with 3”+ lifts, enough to clear the new steelies that poke out just a bit..
Thanks again!
 
If your considering this, soak the bolts in some PB blaster, NOW!
 
Also, when you loosen the bolts, try to loosen, then tighten a few times. When the bolt is 'free', then apply 10W-30 to the threads. Again, a back and forth of loosen, tighten, but advancing the bolt out. At a point, the bolt will free up, and take it out from there.
 
Last edited:
75SV1 said:
Um, no. Cutting oil has sulfur in it.
Click to expand...
That would be good.

The purpose of that sulfur is as a lubricant. Same as it used to be in diesel.

Odds are against the OP having cutting oil on hand, but if he does, that would be a better option.
 
75SV1 said:
Um, no. Cutting oil has sulfur in it.
Click to expand...
"ISH".
Literal + ish = Metaphorical. 🤔

Literal; cutting oil, like actual lubrating oil does not have detergent like motoroil either. 😊


Wander Motor said:
And some heat I suppose?
Click to expand...
Hopefully, the penetrant took care of the need for that. That is always my preference. Still, it is something to have in your back pocket, as it were, for when reality sets in.😄
 
Finished up a stero install and took a few minutes to peek up her skirt, seems the well known engine oil seepage has migrated clear back to the crossmember bolts/studs. That’s actually encouraging.. I’ll bath them in Blaster for while and take a tun on them in due time. I’m sure I can source some cutting oil if it comes to that.
Any tips on a source for a 1” T case drop kit, fast shipping?
 
If you are going looking for an oil to help get out a bolt I would source Kroil before cutting oil. Or make your own 50/50 ATF/Acetone blend. What you are really after is a way to flush out the crud that will load up in the threads. A tap has flutes to make space for the chips, but the bolt has no such flutes. As you loosen up the rust bits you want a way to move them out of the way. That is why the back and forth motion on the bolt is important. It keeps the crud from all loading up in front of whatever bump on the threads is moving it. While cutting oil would be better than motor oil, a light penetrating oil will be best.
 
Wander Motor said:
And some heat I suppose? Time is closing in on me as well, a short trip to central Utah is near, really want to take the Jeep.
Click to expand...
Yes, I'll heat up bolts. It helps to an extent. I'll also drill out the core of the bolt. And sometimes, its so rusted, its practically welded in place. I haven't tried the 50/50 Acetone, ATF mix. I've heard good things. Also, a 50/50 Deisel/AFT. I have used Kroil. It does wick up as advertised. I just went through this with swaybar bracket bolts on a 2010 Chevy Avalanche. Also, the front bumper bolts.
 
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