osweezea
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flushing, MI
Thanks for the input. Keep it coming
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Which long arm lift?
- Thread starter osweezea
- Start date
I love my full traction kit, and they do offer a skid plate, and it sits higher than the stock weak bracket that holds the trans and t-case up. I would agree the rear springs are stiff but, once I'm all loaded and air down it works well. Just some thoughts.
The Skidplate
http://full-traction.com/detail.php?MODELID=4&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=9&PRODUCTID=397&NOTES=
The Skidplate
http://full-traction.com/detail.php?MODELID=4&MAKEID=1&TYPEID=9&PRODUCTID=397&NOTES=
Cowmanche said:
x2
it's pretty much the exact same as the TNT crossmember and it ties into the FT lift as well. I'd venture to say that the TNT and the FT kits are VERY close in comparison (besides the obvious that one is radius arm and the other is a true 4 link). The FT skid is not included in the kit because it was designed as a desert kit, not a rock crawling or mud kit. They designed it for Jeep speed style stuff and it works great for that without the need for the skid. To appease the masses, they created the belly pan and it works great and for $300 you really can't go wrong there.
osweezea
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flushing, MI
Thanks 53! Do you know if the TNT skid allows access to the transfer case?
- Location
- Thornton, CO
osweezea said:
Sure, if you take it off. As with every aftermarket skid.
osweezea
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flushing, MI
Thanks 53. It looks pretty solid too!!
I was asking of the drain and fill, not to actually pull the case
I was asking of the drain and fill, not to actually pull the case
What are you still looking for that you haven't found yet that requires bumpage? If you're looking for an answer to your question as a definate one, you are the only one who's gonna be able to answer it.....but here ya go....get the Full Traction one....and buy the belly pan at the same time.
osweezea
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flushing, MI
thanks, just trying to get as many voices in here as possible. You can never have to much info, right? And I was hoping for more response from actual users with these different lifts. Thats all.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
5spd_xj said:
Currently that is correct to my knowledge.
MJR
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Costa Mesa, CA
I must admit I am more than a little amused at what you plan to do in the short term with it, let me explain. XJ with stock drivetrain (regearing only) + 35's/37's = poor choice. First the XJ with its wonderful 4.0L engine is good at many things but sand/mud is not one of them. Sand and mud are similiar in that power to the ground means the difference between moving forward and sitting still. Even with better gearing the 4.0L simply isn't adequate for serious mud/sand when you add in unsprung weight to compound the problem.
All "kits" have good and bad. You'll have to decide which is best for you. Looking at the options based on what I know I would consider either the RE kit or the TNT. I think the radius arm setups have been around long enough to prove their worth. TNT's setup is nice for the clearance but I can't really say much else about it. RE has always had really good quality products.
A few things worth note are what type of joints are used. Generally speaking a joint that articulates should be better but each one has positive/negatives.
There are a few types of bushings used. Rubber or poly mostly. Rubber is better flexing and for less noise but can tear if pushed too far. Poly is firmer but can be noiser and can also tear if pushed too far. If I had to choose I think rubber is better. In the case of one of the listed kits (Full Traction) I must say based on a friends vehicle I am very disappointed in the bushings used by them. They seem to quickly almost shrink or wear allowing the sleeve (through which the bolt goes) to move. This causes a noticeable thud when accelerating or stopping. Simply using a better flex joint (listed below) would be preferable. RE in some applications use stock like bushings (or used to) which if used within a certain amount of travel work well but if you add in longer shocks or drive them too far they will tear/wear out fast. This happened to me with short arms a 30" extended length shocks. I fixed the problem by using arms with flexable joints at both ends like listed below.
Heim joints are non-rebuildable/replaceable (have very little to no give) but more exposed to dirt/dust damage, RE's Superflex joints (they use a hard bushing material that has more give than a heim joint but less than a Johnny Joint) are rebuildable/greaseable and should be a little better, and finally Currie's Johnny Joint is a rebuildable/greaseable (uses a bushing with more give or noise isolation. Personally I consider the RE or Johnny joint to be the best to use. Depending on whether or not noise isolation/give is important for your use would be which I'd recommend.
Another thought is while softer springs are better for the rocks/flex/ride it occurs to me that stiffer springs might be better is the mud/sand.
An 1" or so clearance shouldn't make a real difference since the stock crossmember I would think is as low or close to any arm setup you use.
Just a few thoughts to ponder. I might add more later as time permits.
Mike R
All "kits" have good and bad. You'll have to decide which is best for you. Looking at the options based on what I know I would consider either the RE kit or the TNT. I think the radius arm setups have been around long enough to prove their worth. TNT's setup is nice for the clearance but I can't really say much else about it. RE has always had really good quality products.
A few things worth note are what type of joints are used. Generally speaking a joint that articulates should be better but each one has positive/negatives.
There are a few types of bushings used. Rubber or poly mostly. Rubber is better flexing and for less noise but can tear if pushed too far. Poly is firmer but can be noiser and can also tear if pushed too far. If I had to choose I think rubber is better. In the case of one of the listed kits (Full Traction) I must say based on a friends vehicle I am very disappointed in the bushings used by them. They seem to quickly almost shrink or wear allowing the sleeve (through which the bolt goes) to move. This causes a noticeable thud when accelerating or stopping. Simply using a better flex joint (listed below) would be preferable. RE in some applications use stock like bushings (or used to) which if used within a certain amount of travel work well but if you add in longer shocks or drive them too far they will tear/wear out fast. This happened to me with short arms a 30" extended length shocks. I fixed the problem by using arms with flexable joints at both ends like listed below.
Heim joints are non-rebuildable/replaceable (have very little to no give) but more exposed to dirt/dust damage, RE's Superflex joints (they use a hard bushing material that has more give than a heim joint but less than a Johnny Joint) are rebuildable/greaseable and should be a little better, and finally Currie's Johnny Joint is a rebuildable/greaseable (uses a bushing with more give or noise isolation. Personally I consider the RE or Johnny joint to be the best to use. Depending on whether or not noise isolation/give is important for your use would be which I'd recommend.
Another thought is while softer springs are better for the rocks/flex/ride it occurs to me that stiffer springs might be better is the mud/sand.
An 1" or so clearance shouldn't make a real difference since the stock crossmember I would think is as low or close to any arm setup you use.
Just a few thoughts to ponder. I might add more later as time permits.
Mike R
BlackJax
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FL, CO, and NC
The tnt kit is truly a thing of beauty. I mean that in the most heterosexual of ways.. lol :scottm:
osweezea
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flushing, MI
Thanks for all the input. If there's more, keep it coming!! Much appreciated!
motorcityxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- detroit suburbs
my favorite long arm kits are the tnt y link and claytons a close second. Best beefiest best all around value. TNT gets the win because of the great design of the belly pan.
