Stuck as usual. Are the front shocks a 2 man job? Special tools needed?

[bimmerjeeper]

After a winter of solid service by my XJ, I decided to finally attempt the front shocks job now that the weather is nice again. Since internet forum braggarts estimate for this job clock in at 20 mins, I got up at 5:30am, and set aside 14 full hours to do this job, and I have all of tomorrow set aside also, just in case.

The top stock bolt is pretty rusty, and it's safe to assume these are the original shocks. So, like almost every other DIY on this XJ, I could not get past the very first step. When I attempt to turn the 15mm bolt, the top sleeve of the shock just turns. I tried to hold the shock in place with my other hand, but this proved to be very awkward.

How do I remove this top bolt? Yes, I have been PB Blasting it for a week.

I read another post suggesting using "channel locks" to hold the top shock sleeve in place. I do not own a pair of channel locks, as I've never come across a situation that required them. Is this job possible without the use of this tool? If this tool is indeed required, how exactly do I use it to hold the shock in place? Do I hold it while turning the bolt? I just don't see getting the right leverage this way. Are the front shocks a 2 man job? Or do I wedge it against something?

Even if I can somehow immobilize the rotating sleeve, I have a serious feeling I am going to strip the top bolt. Is this common?

I do not have a professional grade garage or lift, and I do not have access to electricity, so pro tools like dremels & angle grinders and OXY torches are not an option.
I just have $1000 worth of simple hand tools that are supposedly enough to work on XJs (LOL!)

Also, are there any tips for the bottom bolts of the front shocks?
Do I just turn the bolt with a hand wrench (socket head won't fit),
or do I need to somehow need to secure the nut underneath, as well?

 

[xjtrailrider]

I use a strap wrench wrapped around the dust cover. If it doesn't have the dust cover then just use some vice grips on the shock shaft since you are changing them anyway.

 

[bluejeepkid]

You don't own a pair of channel locks? I would suggest you get some, they are a fairly common tool and useful for many tasks. I suggest using a pipe wrench on the sleeve but essentially Itll do the same job as the channel locks.

And before you complain about how impossible the task Is.... I would guess that millions of shocks have been replaced on the front of xj's... I'm no xj pro, but I have done the job myself more then a few times. It Is doable, and fairly easy.



Also, I'd be interested to see what your tool box consists of, if you have 1000$ worth of hand tools but no channel Locks...

 

[mako my day]

I would set aside 18.5 hours. Per side.

It would be easier to cut the sheet metal out around the rusted nut, and weld in new metal to fill the hole.

Then weld in new shocks.

 

[Digger87xj]

5 easy steps to replace the shocks.

1. Go to the ATM and pull out $120
2. Drop the XJ at the local repair shop.
3. Go get some coffee
5. Come back in an hour or so to find it done.

No dirty hands, no bleeding knuckles, no headaches and drive away happy.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

I borrowed a massive 18 inch channel lock from a professional plumber. I was able to get the nut loose.

It's going to take me an hour to remove that bolt, 1/8 turn at a time!
Do people usually remove the air box to get at that top bolt more easily?

I am doing this with the car not jacked, and the tire turned to one side.
Is that going to be a problem?

Also, are there any tips for the bottom bolts of the front shocks?
Do I just turn the bolt with a hand wrench (socket head won't fit), or do I need to somehow need to secure the nut underneath, as well?

 

[bluejeepkid]

Seriously? Why don't you look underneath and find out for yourself?

 

[Original_MudButt]

Heeeeere we go again...

Are you guys really falling for this :bs: troll?

 

[mako my day]

Can we get pics of the plumber?

 

[GrimmJeeper]

the top of the shaft is not round, look at the end of it closely it's made to be able to grab the two flat sides with vice grips to hold it in place easily.

this is one of the jobs where flex head gear wrenches are worth their weight in gold.

 

[souske]

You need to wrap your blankie around the shock to get it loose

 

[gradon]

Yes, remove the air-box so you can have room to work, but you'll want to wire-brush and pb blast the rusty bolts from the underside of the fender well.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

I have no idea how you can get vice grips onto the top of that stud. I tried the Vice grip trick, and there's no way you can get it on tight enough to not slip. You must recall I have a truly special POS '98 XJ that has rust on every single bolt that requires a mechanic for even the simplest stuff. And there is just not enough room to work 2 wrenches in that spot. This bolt is actually getting HARDER to turn as I slowly get it off. The channel locks are starting to slip off the shock sleeve, and I am starting to mangle the sleeve itself, since I need to regrip the locks after every 1/8 turn I can manage.

Before going further, I made sure the bottom bolts can even be removed. There is no way you can leave the tires on to do this. You need two wrenches, one on the nut and bolt. The front lower bolt is going to be extra fun, very tight.

This will easily be an 8 hour job. So far, I am ahead of schedule, for a change!

 

[kastein]

Stop trolling.