Can you replace the power brake booster without completely removing the brake master cylinder. That is can you leave the brake lines connected to the master cylinder, then remove the brake master cylinder from the booster, then remove and replace the booster, reattach the master cylinder.
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Replacing Brake Power Booter
- Thread starter oldbill
- Start date
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
No.
Your brakes need bleeding anyway to get the old fluid out.
Your brakes need bleeding anyway to get the old fluid out.
- Location
- In a strange land
Are you sure you can't?
I would think that if you disconnected the master from the booster that would also free up the proportioning valve. With the proportioning valve loose (and perhaps the first clamps holding the hard lines to the body) the lines should allow enough movement to get the master cylinder off the studs and out of the way.
Is the problem getting clearance to get the brake pedal rod out of the way? Is it not possible to angle the booster through?
I suppose if there is doubt it would be possible to test the situation in a junkyard.
I would think that if you disconnected the master from the booster that would also free up the proportioning valve. With the proportioning valve loose (and perhaps the first clamps holding the hard lines to the body) the lines should allow enough movement to get the master cylinder off the studs and out of the way.
Is the problem getting clearance to get the brake pedal rod out of the way? Is it not possible to angle the booster through?
I suppose if there is doubt it would be possible to test the situation in a junkyard.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Someone needs to try it I guess. It's not gonna be me.
Never a bad idea to bleed your brakes. Fluid gets old and cylinders get gunky.
I've swapped enough boosters and I see no advantage, perceived or otherwise, in leaving the master hooked up while fighting the booster back in.
Never a bad idea to bleed your brakes. Fluid gets old and cylinders get gunky.
I've swapped enough boosters and I see no advantage, perceived or otherwise, in leaving the master hooked up while fighting the booster back in.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
In the rust belt (michigan definitely qualifies) I would not even try to move the MC far enough to get the booster shimmied out without having the materials on hand to repair those lines because at least one or two (likely the line down the frame to the rear axle and the driver front) will probably crumble.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I'm waiting for the write-up by someone who has done this.
Mostly for entertainment purposes.
What's the big bug-a-boo about bleeding brakes?
Mostly for entertainment purposes.
What's the big bug-a-boo about bleeding brakes?
- Location
- In a strange land
I can see someone trying to avoid having to bleed the brakes if they don't have a second person available, nor the special tools to bleed brakes solo.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Neither special tools or a second person is needed to properly bleed the brakes!
- Location
- In a strange land
Gravity bleed?
I will do that to cut down on the time with a second person, but I still get air bubbles when pressure gets applied.
I will do that to cut down on the time with a second person, but I still get air bubbles when pressure gets applied.
- Location
- In the islands
Yes!, Yes!, and Yes!
I have been rebuilding, replacing and repairing brakes for more years than I can remember (since the early 1970's) and done it all alone and with no special tools. Sometimes a piece of hose if one is available.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
That's one method, but they all have their own intricacies! One example would be upright vs inverted purge bottle, I have found inverted works better and faster.
- Location
- In a strange land
So teach us about these methods.
I have never heard of them before.
Hard to expect someone to do something they have never even heard of.
I have never heard of them before.
Hard to expect someone to do something they have never even heard of.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I'll have to leave that to the scholars! In my condition, to write a clear comprehensive dissertation would take months, most everything is covered on the internet though!
- Location
- In the islands
- Location
- In a strange land
See the second sentence in post #9.
- Location
- In the islands
Yes, I saw that statement. I cannot explain why air remains in your braking system.
I have not tried to ascertain all the air is out of the braking system I bled but I also do not have reason to believe they need further bleeding. They all worked very well for years afterwards.
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
Not having the banjo bolts of the front calipers torqued sufficiently will give you air bubbles 'till the cows come home. I just ran into that problem. I had to go ~3+ ft/lbs over factory specs to get the copper washers to seal installing new lines and washers. :dunno:
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
That's usually a by-product of cheap lines, I've seen some pretty nasty looking banjo fittings out there!
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
They are RE lines, the meeting surfaces we're good. Reused the OEM bolts. But yeah, the copper washers did look a little narrower then what I recall them using in the past. But they're sealed up now. If I have to pull them apart sometime down the road I'll get wider washers.
