looking for suggestions on oil fliter and oil.

[techno1154]

I have been using Amsoil 20/50 for over 140,000 miles. I bought the XJ with 135,000 on the Odometer and changed to Amsoil with 3,000 miles of me owning it after 3 quick oil changes with additives to loosen the gunk. It did leak some (more) oil out the seals for a while then stopped after a few thousand miles. I did change the vibration damper seal which was brittle and broke into pieces. The Amsoil label indicates that it have a high zinc content.

The oil filter is replaced every 5,000 miles+/_ and the oil changed at about 20,000 miles. The oil filter of choice is the Ford FL-1A which is larger that the OEM filter. A quart of oil is added after the filter change to bring the oil level back to the full mark. Outside of that, the XJ uses/looses no oil at all.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Anything but pennzoil and fram. Ha.
Most other have stated what's what.
But, the whole "synthetic makes everything leak" is BS. True/full syn oils have uniform size molecules, which will make leaks more apparent, but not "cause leaks".
I recommend/prefer and run Amsoil. I use the Amsoil AMO which is a 10w-40 with added ZDDP. Rated at 25k miles/1year.
Using full syn you can extend your oil change interval. But, the only way to decide for sure to change oil/filter is an oil analysis. Oil Lab and Blackstone both do them, sure there are others as well.

 

[techno1154]

the whole "synthetic makes everything leak" is BS. True/full syn oils have uniform size molecules, which will make leaks more apparent, but not "cause leaks".
I recommend/prefer and run Amsoil. I use the Amsoil AMO which is a 10w-40 with added ZDDP. Rated at 25k miles/1year.
Using full syn you can extend your oil change interval. both do them, sure.

I could not agree more. My XJ had oil leaking from the valve cover and front and rear oil seals when I bought it. The only seal I replaced was the timing cover/vibration damper seal,...the you change without removing the timing cover. At 130,000+ miles with Amsoil, the 4.0L is leak free.

 

[Ecomike]

Well I have emperical proof that it WILL cause huge MASSIVE leaks. Mine looked like it had been dipped in oil!!!

I tried synthetic, and it leaked and ate 1 quart every 200 miles. I switched back to dyno oil and it takes 2000 miles to use 1 quart. It has 280,000 miles on the 1987 engine.

That was enough evidence for me.

 

[Skits]

Well I have emperical proof that it WILL cause huge MASSIVE leaks. Mine looked like it had been dipped in oil!!!

I tried synthetic, and it leaked and ate 1 quart every 200 miles. I switched back to dyno oil and it takes 2000 miles to use 1 quart. It has 280,000 miles on the 1987 engine.

That was enough evidence for me.

I agree. I don't think it destroys seals or anything, I just think it does such a fine job of cleaning all the nooks and crannies that it unplugs whatever is plugged. I'm seriously leaking from everywhere...

 

[Sardog1]

I've been using nothing but Fram filters and Quaker State dino oil since I started driving many, many, many moons ago. Never had an engine related failure due to oil or filter. Most vehicles (including 3 XJ's) were sold with over 250k. My 2001 XJ is pushing 220k and doesn't use any oil between 3000 mile oil/filter changes.

If you are having the same luck with what you have been using, why change... Your XJ is happy!

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Well I have emperical proof that it WILL cause huge MASSIVE leaks. Mine looked like it had been dipped in oil!!!

I tried synthetic, and it leaked and ate 1 quart every 200 miles. I switched back to dyno oil and it takes 2000 miles to use 1 quart. It has 280,000 miles on the 1987 engine.

That was enough evidence for me.

I agree. I don't think it destroys seals or anything, I just think it does such a fine job of cleaning all the nooks and crannies that it unplugs whatever is plugged. I'm seriously leaking from everywhere...

As I stated, true syn. oil has uniform molecule size, and better quality detergents than dino oil. With this, it "cleans" better, and the uniform size allows it to get through areas more "fluid" than dino oil.

 

[gradon]

I use the Mobil 1 M301 filter(larger than stock) and Brad Penn 10w30 racing oil since day one on my stroker. Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic is on sale for $22/gal($5 off) and has a $5 rebate atm at Advance Auto(I swap between that and Mobil 1 0w-40 on the BMW).

 

[ParadiseXJ]

Well I have emperical proof that it WILL cause huge MASSIVE leaks. Mine looked like it had been dipped in oil!!!

I tried synthetic, and it leaked and ate 1 quart every 200 miles. I switched back to dyno oil and it takes 2000 miles to use 1 quart. It has 280,000 miles on the 1987 engine.

That was enough evidence for me.

May be other leakage issues there. My MJ with 193K and my XJ with 240K are both using Mobil 1 full synthetic, I swapped them out years ago after they ran with dino oil for their previous life. I have had no motor oil leaks on driveway in years. The only drip drops of oil are from changing oil and having oil drip onto the control arms when changing the filters...but no seals or gaskets leaking. The bottom of both my engines are dry.

 

[Hypoid]

Bear in mind the OP has an '88, with metric threads on the filter.

My second to last NAPA Gold filter was empty when I did that oil change. I am accustomed to finding oil in the filter when I remove it from the adapter. I installed another NAPA Gold. Soon after that, the engine wiped a lobe, and/or lifter. So much for that premium quality, anti drain-back valve.

That said, I switched to the later filter adapter. It's a PITA to work around the EVAP canister, but I'm spilling oil again. Not to bag on the NAPA Gold filter, but I get Wix filters for about half the price from my local CarQuest. Same quality for half the price; I'm OK with that.

 

[cruiser54]

And an FYI here. You can get the nipple off an HO and use the standard thread filters on a Renix. 53007563AB for about $5 at the dealer. Or, grab one at the JY. Be prepared with a 7/8 deep socket though.