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Let me tell you a story...

Still need help... that gasket type thing behind the pulley,could that have gone bad and causing a leak there as well? There was an awful lot of coolant... not sure if it was from the t-stat housing.

Haven't had a chance to run it again, was gone Friday/Sat.

Thanks
 
That harmonic balancer looks broken to me. Maybe someone struck it with a hammer? I would replace it ASAP.. Also, about your T-stat housing, did you coat the bolts in RTV? Mine was leaking at the bolts that hold the T state housing on..
 
I love when you fix one thing and another thing pops up...

So I went ahead and got a new water pump + gasket and installed it. Has a new 195deg thermostat, dry gasket. Put coolant in, however, the coolant doesn't seem to want to go down. I emptied out about 2 gallons of coolant, and when I went to put it back in, it only took about the football bottles worth of coolant.

I'm guessing that it's got a major air bubble in there from all of the hoses/pump being out. When we turned the Jeep on, the temp rose rather fast and the aux fan didn't kick in. So i'm guessing that's the air bubble?

I also noticed that where the top bolt is on the water pump, it's leaking just a bit. Apparently I didn't RTV good enough or tighten the bolt enough.

Will I need to get a new gasket and start over or just try cranking down the bolt?

So...next on the list of things to do is burp the system and see if the coolant will go down and the temp stay normal.
 
try tightening the bolt another 1/4 turn. DOn't crank on it, you'll do bad things.

as far as burping the Renix.
Have fun.

Jack the back of it up as high as youcan, pul the temp sender from the back of the head, fill until it comes out.

I've also drilled a small hole in the t-stat face, it helps get rid of the air in the upper hose and radiator.

If all else fails, go get a prestone flush and fil adapter and splice it into the upper heater core hose, you can burp the air from there.

man, I don't miss the closed system.
 
The only thing that makes wonder here is your second pic. The one taken looking at the valve cover/cylinder head seam directly above the distributor. Makes me think a pinhole in the overflow bottle, a heater hose, or radiator.

Did you replace your heater supply/return hoses as well?
 
I had a slow coolant in my '88 caused by corroded freeze plugs in the block. Hopefully your leaks are just hoses/waterpump. There were 5 of them along the driver's side of the block underneath the manifolds. You really should have the intake and exhaust manifold out to do them. I was lucky and stumbled across them while I was in there for that. It's a pretty big job, but your manifold is probably cracked anyway (who's isn't?). Good luck and keep us posted...
 
Well, could only tighten one bolt just a teeny tiny bit without having to take everything back out.

Coolant finally went down, jacked up the rearend and filled the bottle till it came out of the sender thing at the back of the block. Cranked it up and everything went smooth.

No leaks until after about 10 mins of running, at the top of the water pump just below the t-stat housing. However, it was very minute this time though. Just a tiny bit of wetness.

Maybe I can just stick some RTV up there when it dries up a bit? Don't really wanna have to take everything out again.

The new 2 row CSF radiator and waterpump + 195deg t-stat drilled at 12o'clock and 6o'clock did great. The temp stayed between the line between 100 and 210, (how much is that line anyways) and when it even though about getting near 210 it went back down, the aux fan didn't even have to kick in.

Next order of business is running some Seafoam, tune-up and valve cover gasket.
 
Did you look for a crack in the t-stat housing? My 89 had a very SMALL crack...I think it got cracked when the old owner change the stat...It was to dam tight..
 
I got the t-stat housing tight enough now no leak.

I could visually see it seeping from the top of the water pump. Kinda near the top bolt on that housing just below the t-stat housing.

Got the new valve cover gasket in. Interestingly it's made out of cork so we'll see how that holds up. There was some awesome sludge in there too. Cleaned out what I could.

Broke that front hose on the valve cover while at it =)
 
Bdiddy11 said:
I got the t-stat housing tight enough now no leak.

I could visually see it seeping from the top of the water pump. Kinda near the top bolt on that housing just below the t-stat housing.

Got the new valve cover gasket in. Interestingly it's made out of cork so we'll see how that holds up. There was some awesome sludge in there too. Cleaned out what I could.

Broke that front hose on the valve cover while at it =)
Click to expand...

Run a diesel motor oil, it will de-sludge the engine. Shell Rotella 10w30 dino is my choice.
 
joe_peters said:
Run a diesel motor oil, it will de-sludge the engine. Shell Rotella 10w30 dino is my choice.
Click to expand...

and it still has zinc in it, which is mo bettah for the cam.
I prefer 15-40w though, it helps with hot idle/low RPM oil pressure, it's a good thing if your junk gets abused o the trail.
 
So that Rotella stuff eh...

So do an oil change + Napa Gold filter... that'll desludge it and then will I need to do another oil change before the 3-4k miles or what?
 
Bdiddy11 said:
So that Rotella stuff eh...

So do an oil change + Napa Gold filter... that'll desludge it and then will I need to do another oil change before the 3-4k miles or what?
Click to expand...

If running dino (and I would for de-sludge) I would change the oil and filter every 3 months or 3000 miles depending on how you drive. You can do it with the synthetic if you don't mind the cost.
 
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