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E Fan conversion problems - reduced CFM

RockTracXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado Springs
My Jeep has always run hot even in conditions that aren’t that bad. It’s modified with all the heavy bumpers, winches, rockrails, etc. Its generally loaded down with stuff for mountain adventures. And I live at 6700’ and only go up from here. Definitely tough conditions for a cooling system. I’ll also admit the old 4.0 isn’t in the greatest shape either, it burns oil. I’ve been through the system replacing the fan clutch, radiator, flush, etc. I even ran a switch to the e fan so that I could turn it on whenever. It was driveable and functional, but the temp was known to creap, especially climbing mountain passes. For the most part I’ve come to live with it.

Then I saw the Dirtbound efan conversion kit and for the price I thought it sounded great. So I ordered one and dropped it in a couple of weeks ago. The install wasn’t the easiest, it was about like trying to fit an oval peg into a round hole, it took some work and shoehorning and ultimately I cut the upper radiator support to get it to fit. Finally it was all in and I got to drive it. I ordered it with the controller and that worked great, turned the fans on when it should. The first time I drove it I immediately noticed that the engine was peppier. For an old gutless engine like mine that’s a very good thing. That first time I drove it I didn’t subject it to much, the temps weren’t that warm and I was just running errands, but everything seemed fine.

The fit hit the shan the next week when I tried to take the fully loaded Jeep up a pass for some camping. I have never seen the temps shoot up that hard and fast in my Jeep before. Maybe the two fans didn’t come on as they should? I pull over and have a look and all the fans are humming away. I let the Jeep cool down and started out again and just watched the temps shoot up (which ultimately led to what I would describe as vapor lock). It was quite discouraging. We went back down the mountain and filled it up with a fresh tank of gas. This helped with the vapor lock issue and we were able to make it up into the mountains, but it ran hot all the way up (should I pull over and let it cool, kind of hot). That day wasn’t even hot, it was probably around 65*. Obviously, it was quite apparent that this system had to go and I needed to return it to stock.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t just pull the conversion kit and drop my stock system back in because of the cutting I did to the upper radiator support (I cut the ‘back’ lip off that has the holes where the stock efan/fan shroud mounts). So now I’m in a trip to the junkyard as well.

So in the week since I’ve done some thinking and reading. I’ll admit I don’t think I researched the product or the mod as much as I should have before I went all in on it. I think we (I) can sometimes fall into the trap of thinking that if it’s an aftermarket modification than it is implicitly better than stock. And (outside of obvious junk) I think this is generally true. So I thought that this conversion would be better than stock. So, in this case, how would we define ‘better’ than stock? Because it is a mod to the cooling system, specifically fans, I would say that ‘better’ in this case is better cooling. And better cooling through fans means higher airflow, higher CFM. And why wouldn’t I think that I’m getting higher airflow, this kit averages 4300 CFM after all!

When I was putting these fans in I remember thinking that they didn’t look particularly big or aggressive, especially next to the stock fans. Even more so as I am pulling them back out. Every time I looked at these fans after pulling them out, I generally thought, ‘man, those fans are cute’. Someday when these fans grow up, they want to be a stock xj e fan.

Now, let’s talk numbers, because that’s what we’re really after here – CFM. This can be tricky because often these discussions are based more on conjecture than on fact. Fortunately, Dirtbound provided us some good facts from which to build (but I’m still going to throw in some conjecture). These can be seen here:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057920&page=2
To summarize:
DB avg CFM/fan = 1445
DB kit avg CFM = 4335
99 xj e fan CFM = 2300

When I first read that, I was quite impressed with the 99 e fan. Regardless, what we’re basically seeing here in our quest for CFM (total system capability) is that the mechanical fan only needs to pull 2035 CFM to equal the DB kit. Unfortunately I’ve not seen any credible numbers on the m fan, so we’re going to get into the conjecture a bit. But, I think we’ve got some good info to work from. First, just look at that fan! Look at the blade size and blade pitch – it’s quite bitchin, the fan is just straight menacing. I roughly measured the diameter of the fan tip to tip at 14.5”. Another huge benefit of the mechanical fan is that it’s speed varies based on engine speed. When I’m trying to climb a pass this is important. When these e fans or on, they’re on, and that’s all you get.

Anyway, as I said earlier in all my driving and wheeling my Jeep, I’ve never seen the temps shoot up like that before as with the DB kit. This, along with what I’ve stated above leads me to believe that the mechanical fan by itself moves a comparable amount of air as to the DB kit as a whole. Yessir, I’m convinced of at least 4000-4500 CFM at driving level engine speeds.

So, to summarize, I think that when converting from the stock system to the DB e fan kit, one is effectively losing at least 2000 CFM system capability, most likely even more than that. Now, I have read all of the positive reviews and results people have gotten from the DB kit. I think that in stock, good working order, the XJ’s CFM capability is overkill, it has a lot more than it needs. The average, good working XJ can have the stock fan system swapped out for this e fan kit and it will still move enough air to properly cool the Jeep. And removing the mechanical fan load on the engine is a definite bonus.

Returning to my earlier question - Is this mod better than stock? Based on my definition of 'better' above - CFM - there is no way. Not even close. But as I just stated, for many XJs the DB kit CFM rating may be more than enough, so in that case perhaps the mod is still a good choice based on removing the m fan load from the engine.

My goal here is to provide more information and another view to those thinking about doing any fan conversion. I think when we’re deliberating on how to spend our precious resources it’s always good to have as much info as possible. Oh, and yes, the DB fans and shroud are for sale.
Git ‘er Done.
RTXJ
 
I am not in a position to make comments on whether or not you should go back to the mechanical fans since I myself runs dual electric fans and have done so for many years with reasonably good results. I would however like to make one suggestion no matter which way you go in the future in an attempt to get the temperature back to acceptable levels. If your XJ have the AW4 transmission, get the biggest oil cooler you could fit on it with its own fan and mount it some where where it would not obstruct air to the radiator.

Normally I do not experience over heating on the XJ but in stop and go traffic I could watch the AW4 temperature and the engine temperature rise in concert. They both share a common radiator to cool things down. Which one is pulling the other up? I do not know but in the near future, I will remove the AW4 oil out of the radiator on into it own cooler.

Oh! By the way, you did not give us information on your XJ. Help us out in the area in order to get more suggestions and comments.
 
What gears / tires / lift are you running?
And how much obstruction to airflow is in front of the radiator?
From your avatar, I'd guess 4" & 33s & plenty of airflow blockage.
Depending on gears, I'd say that is why your cooling system is under performing - you are demanding too much from it.
The stock XJ system works just fine at any altitude, climate & load I've been able to put on it up to 31s & stock gears.
Also, I seem to remember that the Dirtbound system pulls slightly less air than the factory electric / mechanical combo. Even if it pulls more, I think it is a small difference either way. The advantage is the mechanical fan delete, which will free up a small amount of gas mileage & horsepower.
If you really want to pull CFM, go with a Taurus or Volvo fan swap. It's kind of involved, since you need to change belts & get rid of the stock mech fan idler & idler shaft, grind brackets, etc. No way around metal mods to get a Volvo / Taurus fan in there. You can get 4500 cfm out of that one fan, though, & leave the computer-controlled XJ electric fan in place for a total of 6500 (I think?) when both fans are on.
Me, I'd look first at why your stock system isn't doing the job & then see what the best solution for you is. It might be you need gears. It might be you need to free up some airflow to the radiator. Or maybe the band-aid of a bigger fan is the most cost effective solution.
 
I think the Dirtbound kit was based on FF Dynamic's kit. Some have had good results with it, some complained about reduced air flow.

http://www.ffdynamics.com/jeepradextb1.html

There is a write up on Flex-a -lites new aluminum radiator and fan kit.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/154_1307_cool_in_a_box_bolt_on_aluminum_radiator_with_fans/

http://automotive.flex-a-lite.com/d...ic-fans-for-87-01-jeep-cherokee.html?___SID=U

They claim 2400 cfm combined, I wonder if their numbers are more realistic. I do like the USA made aluminum radiator which is probably comparable to Griffins.

I'm using the ZJ fan clutch with a Csf 3 row radiator, Hayden trans cooler and a Derale steering cooler along with the stock a/c condensor. I dose get hot, pull over and let it cool 250 deg hot, when climing large grades loaded. Trans temp is good at 210 so I may try a heat sink style cooler for it and move some of the heat from the radiator stack. I would like an electric fan set up to get my MPG back up especially for the aniversary event in Moab. I do have 4.56 on 35 which huts it some but plan on a stroker in the future.
 
fans2-1.jpg
 
I tried Dirtbound's setup, and I've also tried the Taurus fan swap. Finally what worked was to return the fans to stock, and install a Griffin radiator. Yes, it's expensive (about $545), and it's thicker than any other radiator I've seen for the XJ, but it WORKS! The price is worth the peace of mind, and not having to f#%$ around with the cooling system any more. I hope this helps someone save a lot of time, energy and money. Skip the fan swap, put in a Griffin rad, and be done with it!
 
I tried Dirtbound's setup, and I've also tried the Taurus fan swap. Finally what worked was to return the fans to stock, and install a Griffin radiator.

Good reason to keep mods reversible, right there. They don't always work as planned.

The Taurus fan, if you keep the stock XJ electric intact, should be a cooling upgrade. It alone, though, isn't.

And generally, in case I haven't said it enough, the stock cooling system is fine until you over load it (stroker, not enough gearing for the tires, air obstruction) and fans alone probably won't fix it if you do. Especially if it gets hot at anything over 35 mph.
 
I'm running dual 97+ XJ fans on my 90XJ(open conversion w/3-row) It cools awesome even with the AC on and the huge tranny cooler in front of the passenger side.

On my 96 trail rig I have fought many cooling issues with little luck other than the stock set-up.
 
I have the DBO kit and my heep stays cool. Some say better fans could be used. But they also make the shroud seperate if that is the route you choose.
 
I just did the Dirtbound upgrade and found that it was no upgrade. I'm around same altitude as you and the last 8 miles is at a slight grade. With my stock fans I was hitting 220 to 225 coming home and it would cool down quickly after the climb. With the Dirtbound setup I hit 230 and above and no quick cool down. It definitely proved to me that my regular fans pulled more air for sure. I have tried everything ie,,, new injectors, 3 row radiator, Flowkooler high flow water pump, all new sensors, refreshed the grounds, every mixture of coolant, new thermostat and cap. I spent 3 hours at a radiator shop with them trying to figure it without and any luck in fixing it. I was told my head gasket may be bad and there is a spot in it where the hot coolant is being forced back into engine never reaching the rad. I'm running 35s with 4.88 gears. Bottom line there was no improvement and I'm still trying to find out the underlying problem that is causing the overheating.
 
Ok, a couple guys touched on it. Seems like you're overheating while your jeep is moving at highway speeds up a grade. I doubt air flowing through the radiator is a problem, _UNLESS_ you have something blocking airflow like a big old winch or lights or something.

What tires and gearing are you running? If you're on 33's with stock gearing, your engine and trans are going to work like crazy climbing a grade, and they'll produce a lot of heat. More than what the stock radiator can carry away. Generally the fans are for low speed around town when you're not shoving air through the grill at 60mph.

Mark
 
Ok, a couple guys touched on it. Seems like you're overheating while your jeep is moving at highway speeds up a grade. I doubt air flowing through the radiator is a problem, _UNLESS_ you have something blocking airflow like a big old winch or lights or something.

What tires and gearing are you running? If you're on 33's with stock gearing, your engine and trans are going to work like crazy climbing a grade, and they'll produce a lot of heat. More than what the stock radiator can carry away. Generally the fans are for low speed around town when you're not shoving air through the grill at 60mph.

Mark

I agree with this. On my 90 I have a LED on the dash that lets me know when the fans are on. They rarely come on while on the highway or at speeds above 50. This Jeep is "over-geared" with 4.10's and 30" tires so she is turning 2300 rpm at 62mph and will hold OD down to 30mph even on grade. The dual XJ e-fans are controlled by a Hayden 195* "snap switch" so they are on and off a lot at lower speeds.
 
Ok, a couple guys touched on it. Seems like you're overheating while your jeep is moving at highway speeds up a grade. I doubt air flowing through the radiator is a problem, _UNLESS_ you have something blocking airflow like a big old winch or lights or something.

What's an XJ without a big old winch AND big old lights? :)
1bjl.jpg


What tires and gearing are you running? If you're on 33's with stock gearing, your engine and trans are going to work like crazy climbing a grade, and they'll produce a lot of heat. More than what the stock radiator can carry away. Generally the fans are for low speed around town when you're not shoving air through the grill at 60mph.

Mark

33s and 4.56s.
 
I just did the Dirtbound upgrade and found that it was no upgrade. I'm around same altitude as you and the last 8 miles is at a slight grade. With my stock fans I was hitting 220 to 225 coming home and it would cool down quickly after the climb. With the Dirtbound setup I hit 230 and above and no quick cool down. It definitely proved to me that my regular fans pulled more air for sure. I have tried everything ie,,, new injectors, 3 row radiator, Flowkooler high flow water pump, all new sensors, refreshed the grounds, every mixture of coolant, new thermostat and cap. I spent 3 hours at a radiator shop with them trying to figure it without and any luck in fixing it. I was told my head gasket may be bad and there is a spot in it where the hot coolant is being forced back into engine never reaching the rad. I'm running 35s with 4.88 gears. Bottom line there was no improvement and I'm still trying to find out the underlying problem that is causing the overheating.

But is 220-225 really worth worrying about? I think that's another thing that all the monkeying around with the DBO kit might have showed me - while the Jeep may run a bit hot at times, at least it was driveable and maybe it's just not worth the time/money to worry about it any further.
 
I am not in a position to make comments on whether or not you should go back to the mechanical fans since I myself runs dual electric fans and have done so for many years with reasonably good results. I would however like to make one suggestion no matter which way you go in the future in an attempt to get the temperature back to acceptable levels. If your XJ have the AW4 transmission, get the biggest oil cooler you could fit on it with its own fan and mount it some where where it would not obstruct air to the radiator.

Yes, it has the AW4 and that is something I would like to do in the future.
 
Nice, both a winch and lights blocking air flow. Pull those and go see how the temps are. :) 4.56's and 33's are what I run, no cooling problems. It's overheating on the highway, which is blocked airflow or bad radiator, if you've replaced the radiator, then it's blocked airflow. How's your ac condensor looking? I'm thinking you might want to reconsider what's in front of the radiator.

Mark
 
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The only situation when DBO fans are better than stock is at low rpm and slow speeds. Best would be described as city drive in hot summer. Before I had the DBO fan bar and started to mess with the cooling, in over 95 degrees, I had to start the AC (starts the efan) to keep the temp on 210 while offroading (at low rpm)/city drive. As soon as I hit the highway and had 2k rpm, just the mechanical fan was capable to keep things under control. Now, with DBO fans Jeep stays in 210 in 100+ when going slow and low in rpm. But I totally agree that the mechanical fan cooling potential + stock e-fan is way better than the DBO efan bar. For me personally, DBO fans work great so far.
 
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