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best tons for narrowing?

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Looking to go to 35s soon, and maybe more later, and thinking about building a set of tons (or having them built) as an option. I would want something a little wider than stock but not full-width. What should I be looking for in the local junkyards

Thanks
 
My info might be wrong but from my limited experience the "best" tons are the 78 - 79 Ford's. High pinion drivers side obviously. The problem with tone's from what I remember is the drivers side not having a lot of material to work with. Which is why the 78-79's are so sought after. The other option is the new fabbed housings. Spider 9's and the like. Dynatrack sell's a center section now days and you can build what you want. Interested in seeing what others say.
 
What should I be looking for in the local junkyards

Thanks

If 35s or 37s is in the plan just find some JK d44s.

I have been scanning the local craigslist for possible axle swaps and am holding out for super duty axles because it won't be long until I want tires over 37"

A dana 60 with 35" tires will be an excavator. My HP dana 30 has been holding up to 35s for a year now no problem. The ground clearance is saweeet :flame:
 
I've been looking for front JK D44 and they are all really expensive for bare kit and still need a lot of work to keep from breaking (truss, sleeve, etc). Its just too much money for the gain. Its either turdy or tons
 
I know that there are companies that make cut to fit shafts for GM 14-bolt and rear D60's. Not sure about fronts. IIRC, a while back Cal mentioned that custom shafts for the more popular axles are not really that expensive.
I would think that you would want at least one pair of spares if you go custom length though.
 
i have built 44 that lived its early life behind a healthy 5.3. i dont think i can hurt it with my tired 4.0 on 35s unless i get absolutely stupid.

if i break a 4130 shaft of 300M joint, RCVs are click and buy. if i hurt a ring and pinion, ill invest in a jantz kit. you can stuff a JK44 or D50 ring gear into a 44 housing. with 37s being whats on your radar, a 44 isnt totally out of the question. gives you that tube to work with. but its not for everyone either. youll have to be honest with your driving style and end tire size. me personally, i like the ground clearance.

for what ford KP60s are going for (in my area at least)... i would just build a fab 9.
 
I hate my stupid 14 bolt because it is big and heavy and dumb, but it is cheap, strong, can put discs on cheaply, and will be about 63" with a bolt-on hub swap.

At this point I would have no concerns about an early ball joint Ford 60, or mid 80s Ford kingpin 60. Super duty 60s have the metric lug pattern so doesn't match the stupid 14 bolt. You can put coils on the mid-80s kingpin housing. Balljoint 60s also probably.

If you are starting at stock axles then you may as well go 8-lug, 17s, huge brakes. Swap the master and booster or you will have a long, soft brake pedal travel.
 
I had a stock long side 60 shaft shortened for like $85. I bought 35 spline stubs and drive slugs for $400? I have no spare axle shafts with 37s on tons.
 
custom 9s w/ high pinion centers, alloy shafts & cmt u joints. had this set up in my cj 5 yrs ago. small block, th 350 trans,locked both ends, 4.56, 4to1 t case, 37s. wheeled lots of rocks at paragon, rausch,big dogs. only breakage in 5 yrs. of use was the a inferior gear part in the tera flex 4.1 kit. i should have went w/ a better built 4.1 kit.
 
In my experience full widths and narrowed axles end up about the same width bulge to bulge but the full widths have far better steering geometry.
With full widths you can use your wheel BS to pull the tires in which puts the scrub radius where it should be,with a narrowed axle you end up using wheels that push the tires outward for steering clearance,this gets you a bad scrub radius and a wider overall width.

my rig is around 79" front and 78" rear bulge to bulge with uncut 78/79 3/4ton Ford axles and 37x12.50s on 5.5" BS Hummer H2 wheels.
 
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