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The question you need to answer first is, are you losing coolant?

The one at the back of the head is extremely small. You probably won't be able to use it for any aftermarket parts.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe solenoids don't have anything to do with reverese and if you have enough fluid pressure for forward you should be able to go in reverese.

I have a question that wasn't fully addressed earlier on the export versions. My rhd 95 is 242 equipped, but the export versions talked about earlier were euro spec, and mine is jdm spec. Does anyone know what to look for on the tag to see which one it is? Surely either way I can just swap it...

Never had a renix but I've welded on many of my xjs with the battery connected and never had an issue.

Mine has been long to start since the day I brought it home over 200k ago. Some people have spent much $ chasing the cause and never fixed it. As long as it starts every day, im leaving well enough alone.

All I can say is the difference won't be on the transmission side. I don't remember which fittings I used, but I have a 2000 aw4 in my 95 with its original lines.

It doesn't take much washboard in a u joint to make a racket, that's where you should always start with a driveline vibration or noise. Front wheel bearings can make noise/ vibration too.

I emailed hesco and they were able to send one out for me. I've got a Bosch mechanical temp gauge coming, it will be interesting to see the difference considering how inaccurate factory gauges are! I've already got a mech oil pressure gauge pulling from the same spot as the factory one and they...

There is lot of different things to try, someone will give you a list, but sometimes it's just one of those things that can develop with no explanation; like a slow 1-2 upshift when cold. Mine has usually been hard to start from day one and everything has been changed except the ecm. But...

There is no solution. You can swap the newer dual speed sensor trans into an older xj, but you can't go the other way. The computer needs than input signal and there is no provision for it to be added to the older style trans. Sorry.

Or a faulty new coil, which is not unheard of.

So I go to order this and it's on back order! Anybody have one laying around they are willing to part with?

Tps is the most likely suspect, but 00-01s are prone to random computer and wiring issues. Good luck.

The tab on the back of the tumbler breaks where it goes into the ignition switch. Depending on how it breaks you can usually turn it to on but won't move the switch far enough to hit the start position. The only way to check is physically remove the tumbler.

I've had two ignition tumblers break on mine, probably ought to check that.

He stated it's a manual.

Just remember 2000-01s seem to be more prone to electrical issues, are coil pack ignition, and the computer is going to be looking for those precats.

195 stant superstat first. Regular water pump is probably a good idea. There have been reports of the misimoto radiators have poorly cut cores and restricting water flow. I'd try a the largest stock style radiator you can find. Plastic tanked ones actually hold up better in my experience.

I mean, it's a really simple system. Just follow the 12v path. Pull the controls, test for 12v at the switch. If it's not there then your problem is at the fuse box. Follow the flow of power from there, my guess is either your switch or the switch plug is bad. I've seen it before on mopars. But...