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When you let off the gas the torque converter unlocks, then locks again when you re-apply the gas. Perfectly normal.

24# injectors with a stock 4.0 map sensor will run like crap. Now, with a map adjuster set for 4 volts it will run like a champ and get improved mpg's.

Probably too small AWG of wire used in the fan circuit and the condition may very well have been gradual.

On a stock 4.0 at 5200 rpm's your slugs are moving at about 3k feet per sec. For a stroker 4600 rpm's is at the 3k mark. Sure you can go higher, but with a cast rotating assembly anything after that for sustained periods is sure to bring an early grave.

There are two large wire harness plugs near the oil dipstick that go down to the trans. Try unplugging and reconnecting them.

distributor..

The switch you pulled sounds like the 4wd light indicator switch. The speed sensor is inline with the speedometer cable behind the gauge cluster. Does the torque converter lock up? There is a white colored plastic switch that needs to be depressed when the brake pedal is up.

Bad crank position sensor?

Is the belt tight? Look at the serp belt when the A/C kicks on and see if it's loose.

No mention of a new radiator cap?

Check your coolant level.

No spacers or add-a-leafs, some might even say shackles too. Full spring lifts are the best way.

Yes, and I agree the 1996 and older have far better fit and overall finish. I always hated the 97+ steering column, but that's neither here nor there.

The fan should come on at about the 215-220 range on the newer XJ's. The computer uses a thermistor threaded into the thermostat housing, however with age that sensors resolution may become diminished resulting in the computer thinking the engine is colder than it really is.

Sounds like the torque converter clutch isn't locking up, when the converter is unlocked it's going to make the most heat. You should get an external trans cooler if you don't already have one.

On the 00 and 01 XJ the A/C clutch operates independently of the auxilliary fan. Instead the computer relies on pressure readings from the A/C to trigger the fan.

The one before the cat tells the computer how the engine is running. The oxygen sensor after the cat tells the computer if the cat is doing it's job.

A lean running motor will cause it to run hot, this was proven to you by pulling a plug with 10k on it and still having it look brand new. A properly firing cylinder will cause the plug to have a slight tannish color to it. How old are those oxygen sensors?

Maybe he doesn't use the 99+ setup b/c he does infact have the Renix head...

Yeah what he said, I happen to like the Purolator PureOne flavor.