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Mine broke like that, but it had less than 100 miles on it. They sent me a new locker that I've put about 45,000 miles on since then. I think that they sent me a new one before I returned the old one. Very good folks to deal with.
I run a lockright in the front model 30 and a no-slip in the 8.25 in the rear. It is a cheap way to lock both axles. It works for me. Mine is not a daily driver, but I do like them on the road.
I had been running 33x10.50 BFG MT's and really liked them. I changed to Procomp Extreme Mud Terrains and while I've only had them out once I like them. They do seem to be louder on the road than the BFGs. I wanted to go with a wider tire because I was getting body damage so i looked at the...
This is my concern also. It would be easy to seal the outside, but I see the rust starting on the inside of the frame. They used to spray the inside of car frames and rockers back in the '70s before galvanization. Anybody know how that was done?
I used 10 cans of Rustoleum Professional (the cans are bigger), and it took 10 cans to do 2 coats. It turned out pretty good. I painted yellow over black.
If you have dents in hard to get to areas, such as a door panel. You can deflate a football and put it inside the panel then inflate it slowly. This has worked for me on the rear quarter panel where you place the football between the panel and the frame where the tail light is.
My lift measures out about five inches. I am running a front shaft on the rear. If you get full droop the shaft will not extend as much as you think because as the axle drops it also move towards the transfer case.
An easy way to get those bolts out is to grind the head off flush with the bracket. Then on the other side use a large socket as a spacer then a washer. Put the nut on the washer and tighten it until the bolt pulls through.