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Thanks, just from me looking it looked like it’ll clear ok. I just wanted some confirmation before I tear into it.
Another question: it’s a 99 with 127k miles. Should I replace the oil pump since I’ll have it opened up? Oil Pressure is fine, about 50psi when under load and 30psi at idle when...
It’s not a horrible leak, but I get a few drops every time it’s parked. I have a new garage so getting sick of cardboard thing.
Is it not possible to unbolt oil pan, move forward enough to drop rear of pan to clear bell housing, then pull it out backwards? It looks like it’s possible, but idk...
I’ve checked valve cover, oil is not coming from that, I’ve already replaced the oil filter adapter so that’s good. Pretty certain it’s the RMS and the oil pan gasket itself.
I have about 4 1/2” of lift, looking from pics, does it look like the oil pan will clear the axle?
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Omg thanks so much. Had the brown and grey switched around. Works now.
Don’t drink and do wiring kids.
Thanks again.
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I don’t think so. Can someone post a photo of the connector so I can verify I have the wires correct? That would help immensely.
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1999 Jeep Cherokee classic 4.0
I had to replace the oil pressure sending switch last year. The connector was practically melted onto the switch, so cut it off, spliced new connector on and put in new sender from oreillys. Pressure was a constant 50#. No fluctuation at all. Gauge was at zero...
I’m not super worried about it. This isn’t a trail rig, not even a daily driver, just more or less a project I wanted to tackle. It’ll see some camping trips and the like, but I don’t foresee myself in a situation where I’ll have to use those recovery points.
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The front bumper is tied in it the unibody with two brackets that you bolt up to the unibody and the bumper mounts to them.
The rear just mounts to the factory location.
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Figured I’d start a bit of a build thread for shits n grins and maybe get some ideas for the interior, which I’m tackling next.
Last October picked up a rust free super clean 1999 XJ classic with:
4.0 with 125k miles
Auto
NP 242
Chrysler 8.25
Amassed all the components and bumpers I...
So to update, used 6* steel shims. That put the driveshaft at 15* and the pinion at 15*. I am getting some slight vibes from the rear at higher speeds and when under acceleration, as confirmed by removing and driving w the front DS only. Is this ok or do I need to get the pinion a couple degrees...
I recently lifted my xj approx 5” and put a hack and tap sye on my 242 transfer case. My driveshaft angle is 17*, and my pinion angle is 8*. So if my math is correct, 17-8=9* difference. 9*-2*(for wrap under acceleration)= 7*. So I would order 6* shims? Does this sound correct?
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Just to be clear, I cut the transfer case output shaft 3/4” of an inch longer than the iro directions stated. I ended up w approx 5” of lift front and rear. I didn’t take out any leafs from ome leaf pack that says it’s a 3” lift. It’s 5” all day w all the leaves.
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I’m the OP, Just going to add to this thread.
So I went with the iro hack n tap. Went pretty smoothly. Ordered a Chinese front driveshaft, and cut it 3/4 of an inch longer then the iro directions said, per a suggestion in this thread. Had to cut off some of the yoke to make fit, but worked out...
There are actually 4 total sensors on the Cali emissions. Two on each precat. There is a third catalytic convertor visible from underneath the vehicle, but I suspect that was put there so anyone looking would not say “hey you have no catalytic convertor!” Mine third one was stolen and I had...
I’m just going to replace both on that precat, rock auto has them both for about $60. Idk if they’re original or not so I’ll just do it.
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