Search results

Well I had a burnt exhaust valve then I started to get a light rod knock under load. Then a couple of days later the trans started clicking when trying to go into reverse, and only got worse to the point of no reverse in one day. The day after that I was driving to work and hit a big pot hole (I...

Ok well i looked at it closer today and as far as the motor is concerned all i have to do is swap sensors from the old motor and then i have no issues. I'm also sure the transfer case is the same and no problems there, now the only thing i dont know is how the aw4 tranny changed over the years...

Ok I have a 93' cherokee with the 4.0, the motor, trany and transfer case all went on me over the course of a week. So i found a new compleate motor, trans, and transfer case out of a 2000 jeep with 40k on it and i got a great deal the whole thing for $350. But the problem is that the 2000 motor...

ok its time for a regear and im going from 3.55 to either 4.10 or 4.56 i have a d30 hp front and a 8.25 in the rear it is a dd and sees alot of highways im personally leaning towards the lower gears, but want some help there. the main question is the dana 30 carrier i know i need a new one, but...

Mine did the same thing. It sounds exactly like the TPS. To check it slide a T-pin for cork boards next to the wires on the back of the connector the voltage should read about .6v at idle to 5v at WOT. I did not think the TPS had anything to do with the tranny shifting, but it did. You can also...

Thanks for all the help it turned out to be the resistor on the drivers side fender. I looked at it and saw a crack in it, i then pulled on it a bit and it easily became two pieces. It turns out it had been coroding awhile and had finnaly lost all connection cost me about $5 to fix. Thanks again.

my tps went out about 3 months ago and would not let my trans shift, so it was replaced. I do not think it would go bad that quick, but it does sound like that could be the problem. How would i go about calibrating the tps, because i donot think i adjusted it when i got the new one. Also another...

I've heard that the cps will stop the jeep from starting, but could it make mine do what its doing?

no its not a fuel problem, because if i play with the peddle i can keep it idleing at 3,000 rpm. and if the map sensor were unpluged the computer would use a default input. Still have not figued anything out though.

I have searched and tried alot of things already and nothing has worked yet. The engine cranks over normaly and starts normaly, however it dies after <5 seconds. when it starts it sounds normal and the rpms are normal for starting/ idle. I thought it was fuel related but i released alot of...

I would be more worried about mud in the rad. After I removed my AC cond. I found that even with powerwashing the rad I still had not removed all mud. Once the condensor was removed and all mud clear I hat a 20 degree drop in temp. By the way I like the $60 fix and know that I will need it soon...

There is already 2 threads on this that are current. But yes it is for lower end power because of the runners and it is up to you to decide if it is for you. It is not supposed to take that much away from the high end though.

sounds like a good deal, but I wanted 2.5" for the coming stroker and I wanted it done for me. I dont have the time it takes to put an exaust on and fix all the leaks. Which reminds me I do still need to fix the leak on my 5.0 mustang. I also like the $63 cat, I might go get one because I dont...

Just would like to add my full 2.5" custom bent system from header to tail pipe was 250 total. A hell of a deal and I love it with the flowmaster 50 series + $80 = $330 the price of a mufler back 2.5". It sounds nice and powerfull, but not too loud.

Just a stupid question. How old is the gas in the tank? And was it from a station you normaly visit or right after the tanks were filled? My guess is that if the timing is right and its not you ignition then it is probably a stupid problem. Maby something overlooked, a plug to a sensor that did...

Thanks for the info, I like the AEM setup alot. Does anyone know how much this would sell for, I did not find it on the site. I hope its not too bad, because I am on a poor student budget.

Did not buy from a BOSS dealer. It was brand new, but because they were not a dealer there was no waranty. Also the reason it broke was probably because what boss claims as 2200rms watts was not up to the task of REAL 2000rms subs. I got the amp for $150 and got my hifonics for $180. Get a good...

there was a site that has a chart on lift vs uca and lca lenghts which stated 5" before longer uca. But I am at 6.5" actual and have no problems with the upers and the lowers a 1/4 to 1/2 in longer. The only problem is that with stock uca and lots of lift is reconnecting them after you remove...

I'm at 6.5 right now with 32'' tires and only an adjustable track bar and have no steering upgrades. So I would say it is not necessary at first, but I am also looking for upgrades as I think about bushwackers to fit 35"s. jcr off road makes what looks like a good kit for 200 there is a link in...

Alright i'm late, but I do know about all things sub's from experience. In my xj I was pushing 2000 watts rms and 4000 max. A good quality amp that will not break the bank or its self is hifonics. If you have one or two 300rms subs I would recomend the 500 or 1000 watt hifonics. Now for the door...