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twice i had an issue like this, once was a knock sensor that i had hit with something and once was a coolant temp sensor. HTH

could also be damage to the ecu from welding did you unhook both battery cables?

16-18MPG would be amazing at this point. especially if thats in the city. if i could get 16-18 on the highway too id be ecstatic

All very good points. Thank you. I am still on the fence about it but there's really only a few options in my area for a decent newer xj for under 1k. a couple 4.0s with major issues like transmissions or engines. and then there's a coupe 4cyls with no real problems. all for about the same...

I'm looking for some input from the 4cyl owners out there. I have looked at several threads but they seem to spiral into get a 4.0, swap a 4.0 so on and so forth..I want to know what they are actually like to live with. I already own a 90 4.0 cherokee, but I am looking at buying a newer 4cyl...

finally got the EGR valve working. the vacuum disc between the solenoid and EGR valve was faulty. and since the EGR vale on my other truck is faulty I switched the vacuum orifice? disc to my truck. now at OT when you blip the throttle the EGR moves.. they dont mention it in the test but that...

mostly low speeds.

dust shields? mine were touching my rotors just slightly.

just a small update. mpgs are around 10. but thats city driving in Ft4wd in winter with about 300# of crap in the back. also the 33x12.50 MTR/Ks and stock gears probably arent helping. I'd say my mpgs are much better. before in these conditions i was getting about 7...

the best fix is to find a lock nut that threads onto that rod to prevent it from happening again

thats what i thought but its mostly fixed now so i'll leave it alone for a while and see what happens

both MAT's are clean and tested right. Amazingly no exhaust leaks. the weld i put on the manifold actually held. the idle is the same with the MAT in both locations with either MAT. it was just a mod i saw and thought I'd try. Its a nice improvement but we shall see. No idea what actually...

Well after driving the truck for about 70 miles, I can say I have a mostly normal idle now! Not really sure what fixed this, but its alot better. I should note that I relocated my spare MAT to the intake tube. Not sure if that helped or not yet. I will say I have noticed a good gain in power...

well I havent changed anything yet. but i am now getting an occasional normal idle! its not constant like if i rev the engine a bit it will go back down but its progress. also i cant seem to get any movement from the EGR doing the throttle blip test. the solenoid seems to work. when i unhook...

tomorrow im going to adjust the idle stop and see if it sticks

well i'd say that was a waste of effort but we wont know till i run a tank through and see if atleast the mpgs improved. idle is still the same. its not missing as much though much smoother. not sure if the egr circut is working yet. ill have to look into testing procedures.

sort of off topic but i just rebuilt my egr valve the rusty one is the one from my truck, the other is from the new intake manifold ill be installing. the right one is from the new one, but the nipple is broken. the left is the rusty one. so i put the rusty cap with the good nipple onto...

the entire TB is squeaky clean.

I forgot to mention I revved the truck up in that video. it will sit at 300rpm all day long.. unless I have headlight and heater on.. then the battery will slowly die. which is the main reason I want to get this solved. I will check what happens with the IAC unhooked tomorrow valve cover...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK4KHe3sCnY this shows the issue. which has remained through everything I have done.