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2012 or newer JKU.

Yeah, I've flown mine as well... landing it didn't work out too well though, haha.

it's gonna be kinda hard to hold the vehicle up by the axle after you pull all the control arms off...

Sounds like your angles are fine, so my guess is it's something with the driveshaft itself, either with the u-joints or some slop in the yoke. Double check your axle u-bolts too, just in case, along with the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the SYE yoke and to the pinion yoke.

Hmm, I may have to rethink my 1.5 OD x .25 DOM then...

What material/tubing did you use for the traction bar?

Yeah, but it's nearly $500...

I ran 35x12.5s with the same amount of lift, on basically the same rims, and for the most part it's never really felt unstable to me. I'm still running the good ol' RE drop-bracket setup though - I haven't gone long-arm yet. We're running the RE LA system on our TJ though, and it's never...

FWIW I've been running the U-Turn kit for about 4 years now if anyone's got any questions on it. Regarding the original now-almost-a-year-old post, for that amount of lift I would not recommend the U-turn kit. I think it's great if you need a strictly bolt-on kit and are running between 4-6"...

Excellent! I didn't know they had that option. IMHO their site is pretty crappy when it comes to up front info about the kit. They make no mention that you can get flex arms (which is what that kit in the photo has) with the kit, or that they've got an optional t'case skid, until you go to a...

Not that there's really any difference btwn RC's and RE's other than the price and the braces, but Marcus (GoJeep) is running RE's. Anyway, the only thing I don't particularly care for about the BDS LA setup is the lack of a t'case skid. Depending on how low down their crossmember hangs...

Hmm, really? http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=3 (fwiw, that 4-link kit only just came out recently, RK's claim to fame is their 3-link systems).

Rock Krawler's kits are 3-link. As for running radius arms... I've yet to see a 4-link (or 3-link) "outperform" a similarly equipped rig running radius arms. Binding shminding, IMHO and in my experience it's a non-issue unless you're trying to do something like a 14" travel suspension, but...

as far as how much contact they make, that's just how much they make when they bottom out. As for why they're so long, it's to keep my tires off the inner wheel well and to keep my shocks from bottoming out, and even with that amount of bumpstop, the tires still rub on the inner wheel well...

Sorry to bring up a somewhat old thread, but after breaking a front bumpstop for the second time now, I'm trying to research for some alternatives. Richard, what exactly do you mean here? If the bumpstops aren't stopping the compression, what is? Here's the issue I'm running into... at full...

RE 5.5" kit (the RE6200 short arm + DBs) with 35s. Flexes pretty well too IMHO. Now it's flareless with 36" IROKs, and slightly shorter. :wave1:

I'm bypassing the radiator running a stand-alone cooler and my temps aren't even that low... usually 160* once it's up to temp, and it takes a while to get there. "Stock", with the fluid going through the radiator and my factory Mopar trans cooler the temps were closer to 200*.

MJs have reinforced LCA mounts on the body already, so not having the additional DB braces isn't such a big issue.

I know AlloyUSA makes Waggy44 shafts. Pretty sure Superior does too, and maybe even Yukon. If you can get the matching rear, I'd probably do it just so you've got a matching set. You can change the rear to 6x5.5" using some wheel spacer/adapters but the ones I've seen are 2-piece and would...

Here's some pics of the RE drop bracket kit. Looks like the new RC brackets are a copy of the RE brackets, which are copies of the original design by TrailMaster, just with a different brace than RE's. (the original TM brackets had no brace). The main difference btwn the RC and RE...