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Also for anyone interested, 1/4" nylon air brake tube is the same size as the factory piece. Any parts store or truck stop will sell it to you by the foot, and it's cheap.

Buy these instead: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK

I believe Cibie are the best, according to the lighting master Daniel Stern. But they are fairly expensive. I run Hella E-Codes because they are accepted under the British Columbia, Canada motor vehicle regulations. If E-codes are not accepted, and you need to pass an inspection (I doubt they...

I should mention that it seems to start much faster when warm. That was what initially made me think of the coolant temp sensor or intake air temp, but those check out OK. Any more thoughts?

Mike, I thought the same thing but remembered that I had written down my TPS numbers before I had this issue. They are pretty much the same within a few mV. In the FSM, the first section says "This will vary in an approximate range of from 1 volt at minimum throttle opening (idle), to 4 volts...

It's an automatic Mike.

Here are the results from my diagnosis: MAP Sensor Test: 0 in-Hg = 4.7V 5 in-Hg = 3.9V 10 in-Hg = 3.0V 20 in-Hg = 1.280V (This is the only one that differs from the book value of 1.1V) The sensor holds 20 in-Hg of vacuum for a long time. I checked for 5V reference signal, and the ground is...

Forgot to mention, I have tried the poor man's prime. Also checked fuel pressure with gauge, correct when running and it does not bleed down. Thanks though!

In the last few weeks, my 93 XJ 4L has been taking a few seconds longer to crank. Once its started, there are no other symptoms. It runs well. I've noticed that if I let off the key before it fires, it will catch and run sooner. I remembered reading about this online...

I actually replaced mine with a Mopar unit about 6 months ago. It solved the problem I was having before. Should be good to go for another 20 years I'd hope. It starts up quick when warm, but a cold crank takes a few seconds longer than normal. Fuel pressure is good, doesn't leak down...

JeepNoob Sorry, forgot to fill in my profile here. 93 XJ with the 4.0L. Tim_MN and dan1977p Thanks for the info. That is the way I checked my TPS sensor. The FSM isn't very specific about it being required to reach 4.8V at WOT but I'm thinking it should be higher than what I'm measuring...

I'm tracking down a long crank time issue. All voltages below are measured with engine off, key on. Idle Voltage 0.752V WOT Voltage 3.608V Reference Voltage 4.96V I checked those voltages above with a digital multimeter and checked with an analog meter to verify the sweep looks good with no...

Oh you replaced that end of the driveshaft? But not the double cardan centering yoke or u-joints?

What do you mean by "slip joint in the front drive shaft was rebuilt yesterday"? What parts were replaced

Video is private, can't play it.

I'm trying to fix a vibration and in the process I have temporarily removed my front driveshaft and replaced the rear u-joints with Spicer 5-1310X sealed joints. While checking the run out of the rear driveshaft I noticed that there is 0.015" of radial movement at the rear transfer case slip...

Sorry I should have clarified, the photo I posted above was just a random one to show what part I was talking about. Strangely enough, the parts I got from NAPA that worked well appear to be exactly the same kit as you have.

Yeah it needs to be drained of fluid to make the adjustments properly.

As I posted earlier, it's not the adjuster cable that makes the difference. It's the adjuster cable pivot bracket. The part that rests behind the drum brake spring. The inferior kits aren't made properly.

I just replaced my remaining left rear Carlson brake drum adjuster hardware kit with the kit from NAPA. The NAPA adjuster cable pivot bracket is far superior, it is beefier and positions the cable guide slightly higher which keeps the adjuster lever in constant tension to the star wheel. All...