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I have found that a high durometer rubber works well as a final stop inside the prothanes, compared to UHMW and the like.

The Prothanes will not compress much from the static weight of jeep. That would defeat their purpose. They perform at speed, in whoops and jumps, or dropping off ledges/obstacles, and anywhere you would normally bottom out the suspension. Also will not make up for soft springs or low damped...

^Thanks for the input. I also remove the ZJ clutch come winter. My rig is a daily driver also, but going to the grocery can involve 10 miles of sand driving. The noise has not been an issue for me.

A properly working system cannot keep up in the deep stuff after a few miles. Unless it's a land rover. There is simply not enough air flow at 5-10 mph and steady 2K rpm. The sand gets beyond 130 F so no help there either. Each season we have vehicles combust and burn because of it.

^ Typo, should read 'correct'. lol No terrain makes more heat than desert driving in deep soft sand and dunes.

Thank you for the reply. All your points make sense. When I solder I try to minimize the slug transition by tapering. I was wondering about leftover flux, if it protects the connection or not. I will be sure and get rosin flux. Thanks again!

^ Are you referring to solder? I live in a heavy salt-air environment. All wire connection are under severe attack and the ones that are not soldered, the corrosion creeps in and up the wire rather quickly. Even if it's wrapped well with quality heat-shrink. In Arizona it is likely a non-issue.

I see, that would cause the whole axle to shift left to right and mimic a steering issue. But wouldn't that cause death wobble as well? I have head of folks adjusting the lash by guessing, with the steering box still in the jeep. And can have ill effects like the OP described.

Old thread but I noticed that there was no solder used on the crimps. Bad idea with fine strand automotive wire.

I have the Wet Okole neoprene seat covers, waterproof. 8 piece set, front and back. They work great but do not fit with my blue XJ. The covers are black/red. Here is a link to pics. It is a for-sale ad for my seat covers. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f73/wet-okole-neoprene-seat-covers-181696/

I just installed the same oil with a NAPA 1515 filter, now the engine ticks in the top end and sounds like a diesel engine when idling. Pressure is up, 50 psi.

The ZJ V8 fan clutch is Not a band-aid fix for poor cooling system. It is the key to steady temps for slow speed/high RPM's The stock system in tip top shape cannot keep the engine and transmission regulated when driving 8mph at 2000 rpm in deep soft sand for 12 miles. Or driving 45 mph in...

That is bad news. It is likely the worm drive gear inside the steering box has broken teeth which allows the 'skip' and the off-center steering wheel. This will require a rebuild or remanufactured box.

Clayton 3-way adjustable. Come with oversize, pressed in 'clevite' bushing...

Sweet, are you going to jump it and report back on results?

Amazon is usually best by a few dollars, and Jegs.com is good with free shipping on everything. I have for sale two sets of 2 ring Prothanes. New in box $20 shipped. Matched the front inserts with progressive rate bumpstops for the rear. To get the height right I welded a spring perch on the...

Sounds like a 'low voltage' situation. Wish I could offer more help.

The great thing about these wheels is that they are 'hub-centric'. The load and weight is not on the lugnuts. I use 1" spacers that are hub-centric to the axle and to the wheel. Most all aftermarket wheels are lug-centric. Also, the Ravines weigh half of a steel wheel. And we all know...

Those are sweet wheels at a great price. Here is what I did to a set of 5. [/URL] [/URL]

Girl Driver?