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It was on all of it. The head was from Clearwater in Florida. The machine shop that did the lower half used new parts for all the moveables. The block was cleaned up, resurfaced, dipped and all that jazz. Least thats what they said. The shop that did it also didn't put the head on correctly and...

Basic rebuild nothing fancy but everything is new and broke in proper. ZJ fan clutch also is new. Water pump is from Napa. Radiator is a 3 row csf aluminum. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

Front and back temp sensors have also been replaced with OE parts from the dealership. All sensors for the matter and have been tested to ensure they're working proper.

1992 4.0 - rebuilt motor, NEW head, new radiator, water pump, mopar 195 thermostat (pre tested), lower/upper hose, overflow bottle, 50/50 coolant, thermostat housing and it's been professionally 'burped'. Heater vacuum controller (plastic piece of leaking crap) has been replaced with straight...

HP D30's are cheap and damn near everywhere. Bring a 13mm socket/wrench with you to open the covers and check the gears. Even if you do get one that looks good I'd still change out the inner tube seals and ball joints. Steering stuff is pretty cheap also. V8 ZJ tie rod/ends are a decent upgrade...

Check the kick down cable make sure its tight. Easy and free box to check off. Next look for the EXT IDLE switch should be around your fog lights/rear wiper area. Mess with that see if it helps (switch to the other position). Once that's done head down to Orielly Auto if you have one. Rent a...

Theres no reason you can't but its not necessary. 8Mud said you can manipulate the hard line so the hose follows another route. I used a ziptie when I put the new line in. Once I upgrade my pump I'm going to actually bend the hard line to a straighter angle all together. Honestly it is just...

Perfect thanks! Don't know if you remember my overheat issue I was having but found out the CSF radiator has a different neck than stock so I needed a new radiator cap. Gets here today but keeping my hopes high. If its not that than I'll be pulling the head to see if the jackets are clogged.

1992 4.0 AX15 NP242 I'm trying to figure out what problems rotted lines to the charcoal canister could cause. I've been hunting down a crappy idle and abnormally low MPG (10 to 12 city) for awhile now. I've narrowed it down to the wiring harness up until the other day. I was converting to a...

Nvm got it. Stant 10230 found it on this link incase anyone needs. They quoted the wrong part number for Stant but the others were correct. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/radiator-caps-fit-csf-3-core-hd-no-2671-a-1380887/

Has anyone heard of a radiator cap blocking an overflow tube. I was messing with my cooling system today and noticed the upper radiator hose was pretty inflated. Usually, in the past, the upper hose was still able to be squeezed even when its at full temp. I started to unscrew the cap and fluid...

Just did a 4g battery cable and 136amp alternator upgrade. Havent got to turn key yet but good info. I also upgraded the head light harness to hopefully reduce draw. A winch and OBA are in my near future (within a year hopefully) so the extra amps are more of a failsafe for me than anything...

I shoot you a PM don't want to hijack if you're ok with it?

Not really concerned with the tapping its the turning radius. Both Durango boxes I've put on my MJ's have had a pretty significant reduction with the turning radius. There's a writeup around here on how to rectify it but its been a few years since I looked into it.

I keep waiting for someone to sell modified Durango boxes but no luck yet. I don't trust my skills enough to mess with a steering gear. I'm more of a "hit it with a hammer until it moves" kind of guy.

Quote from another forum but the later years do work. Not sure if the internals are the same as the pre 96 but who knows. Quote: pre 96 s10 box is what you want to look for.. not sure the the later years will fit or not. Some may say that a V8 durango box will work (which it will) but they use...

High output on mine. I still should replace those one of these days.

Didn't read the thread but I can chime in a bit on the WJ steering pump. It's not like the stock pump where it has threaded holes in the middle where you can run two bolts from either side. You need to get a bolt long enough to go through the pulley side and out the back. To me it wasn't worth...

My RMS keeps popping everytime a new one is put in. Even had the motor rebuilt. Few weeks later there it is. Not sure whats causing it but might be better to spend time somewhere else. If you're dead set on fixing it grab a syringe and some dawn dish soap. Soak the upper seal in soap for a bit...

Running thicker diff fluid might help but you're still going to hear it