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PPW does but they run $735 bucks :attom:

Thanks, I forgot about this again until it finally did it to me in town at O-Rileys parking lot. I do have a couple places that do rebuilds locally but not sure what parts they use. I do see a couple places online that seem to have "upgrades". DB Alternator JS Alternator Mech Man Power...

Bump back, issues keeps coming up. I changed out the temp sensor for the battery awhile back along with battery tray as it was broke. Rerouted the coolant hoses so they have an air gap between the battery as well. Also verified wiring and everything appears to be good and solid. Connections...

So updates, battery tested out fine. Load tested no issue. Went out and ran a real similar run, warmer temps and extended low speed trail riding. Had no issues as the last 2 times. Looks like the stick worked or helped. I might trim the end of the hose to move it away from the battery a...

true as well, if it was putting out low amps and the battery was being de-charged I'm not seeing why I'd have any chance of restarting after letting it sit. Cranking over doesn't act like a partial charged battery. I can check the amp output as work as well. Same with the voltage, the gauge...

Don't really know either. Drove it into town last night and back home, zero issues. Thought was is the coolant hose is transferring heat to the battery. Battery heats up and the sensor tells the computer that it is hot and most be overcharging so it cuts the alternator voltage to nothing...

battery isn't overcharging and it's in good condition. No issues with the wires. Gauge on the dash doesn't dip below the 13.8/14. Runs 13.8 idling. As I said I can drive it down the road and around town and have zero issues, run on slower forest trails not a speed and the engine will just...

thanks that what I was looking for. Any idea if those codes are stored? I didn't have my scan tool with me when it happened.

Had this issue 3 times where the voltage gauge drops, check engine light comes on and engine dies. 2000 XJ, 4.0, AGM battery. One was last fall winching through some snow. We sat for awhile, popped the hood and started checking various things. After 15 minutes tried the key and noticed the...

Not worth the time, imo. I start trying to fix some "issues" on mine and ended up just cutting the entire body off and starting over. Still alot of work but very much worth it.

Spool: Next up is sling it back under the jeep. I got Hiems on order and am planning on changing the wheels studs over to 5/8". But upper link mounts are the next big item on the to-do list. Will be some notching through the floor, but looking to run a rear crossmember and have the link...

Last to get done was to install this spool and 5.29 gears into the rear axle: and mocked up the brakes, have a caliper bracket that I need to have made before I can fully bolt them on. They are a tight fit even with 16's, but it should work. Diff back in and hubs and axles installed...

Drew up the rear link mounts and had a buddy zip them out on his laser: They fit perfectly and got the subframe all welded up. Boxed in the front of the subframe.

Next up is the frame, transmission mount, and suspension mounts. Wanted improve the link angles so we decided to build a subframe and mount off of it. So using some 2x3 tubing I started getting it tacked up. Shown with mocked up link locations. axle at full bump, links nice and flat...

well finally got some good progress done. Motor mounts on the frame side are done. Used the standard bushing, raised the motor about 1". With the bushing shells tacked in place made a couple round pieces to fill in the hole left by the stock bushing. Pardon the welds as I'm learning over...

Just getting started working on this again: Got a engine from a buddy for free and found a few AW4's around, bolted to the NP242. Engine will need to be gone through but I'm not trying to stroke it and get it just reliable if possible. But right now I need to get the drive train mounts done...

I read the same things and non of it makes sense to me (having issues). Reads more like old wives tales of someone that got a bad unit 35 years ago. But alot of people instantly say oh thats' a bad idea for the 4.0's - You will drain the oil pan to quickly and starve the pump! Anyways my 00...

I was using the Shell HYOAT red premix from the parts store then found out CAT's ELC premix was cheaper.

Ruffstuff makes/sells them as well. I agree with the above, not my thing.

They are Daystar bushing, have a new set and sleeves on the way. Had to call them, I guess they are normally just sold in bulk of 50.