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You'll be fine venting all lines together. I would recomened routing them as high as possible under the hood with a 90 degree turn toward the ground; or better yet, vent them high up inside the cab. Just remember to use a rubber grommet where the lines pass through the sheetmetal.

It could possibly be the crank position sensor. When it dies, you have the last known good code on the ECU...until you shut the engine off. After that the engine will not fire.

1/4" frame bent perfectly to match the XJ contours and "very carefully welded into place" took me about 2 full weekends. take your time with measuring and cutting. Also the XJ unibody frame is very thin. Be very cautious welding 1/4" to it!

must be nice to have money!

if you want camo and you're willing to prep w/ 220 grit and clean surgically try www.aervoe.com. that's what the military uses. Mine has held up very well.

CamoX has the correct proportions for the MERDEC scheme. I used Aervoe desert colors for mine (Earth Brown, Sand, and a little Earth Yellow). I will caution that these colors look a little pastel when applied, but they fade slightly to a more mellow color. Aervoe (www.aervoe.com) is what the...

Don't get discouraged! Check Novak and advanced adapters. Alot of people are swapping in the small block Chevy now!

For a cheap and reliable V-8 swap you can't beat the Chevy 350-TH350. A little off-topic now. I am in the process of installing a 1970 Pontiac 400 dyno'd at 400HP@3800 RPM and 520LbFt at 2100RPM.

Trying to fit 46" on an XJ?

Terry has some of the best prices. I can't speak to the rear and tire carrier, but my front cost me around $380. Look in to some of the other front bumpers offered and compare!

C-Rok definately! The quality is top notch. It will not only protect,but will strengthen the unibody.

I'm looking for an aluminum radiator that can cool a Pontiac V-8 on a 99 degree day to fit in the tiny XJ spot. Does anyone have a line on XJ radiators that cool this well and don't kill the wallet?

You are smokin' crack thinkin' you can drive 37s on the street in an XJ. If you want a tall truck, grab a 94-01 Dodge Ram and jack the hell out of it. As a thought to you, I am lifting my XJ 6.5" with severe fender triming to fit 37" tires with full width truck axles.

My reply? In an XJ; carry the tire on a rear rack well above the departure angle of the vehicle. The constuction is up to you!

If you can get the 350CI Chevy complete drive train; why would you ever want the unspectacular 4.0L? The Chevy motor should fit in the XJ engine bay easily. You will have to work out trany and T-case placement though. Check with Advance Adapters. They can give you lots of info.

Try Randy's Ring and Pinion: www.ringpinion.com

If all else fails; go back to basics and rebalance your tires/wheels. If the vibe occurs around 45: Balance the tires.

The D35 will hold up under occaisional offroad use with 32s and stock gearing. I hammered my old XJ pretty hard with stock gearing. If you add a locker or bigger tires, you have a sure recipe for disaster. If you use it purely as a daily driver, the 4.10s will give you close to stock gas...

I've got a lincoln weldpak (Home Depot Special) 110V and 20A. I just finished boxing the unibody "frame" with .25" angle iron and .25" plate. The welder worked great for the 1.5 minutes the cheap breaker in my house panel would hold without blowing. I had to watch the weld puddle very closely to...

I just finished welding .25" angle iron and plate to box in the "frame" around my Rusty's lift kit. The Rocky Road rockrails I purchased will not fit with the long arm lift kits I have seen. I'm comfortable to modify what I have, but if you are new to the sport, please consider that you may need...