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i've been using the rubber "foot" like you'd find on crutches for a looong time. sounds similar the post above ^^^ i found them at www.mcmaster.com for pretty darn cheap (<$1 a piece)

put me down for a set of swaybar extensions and possibly an odyssey PC1200MJT (depending on price). i might even be able to pick up in person, unless shipping is cheaper than gas ;)

i bought a can of "AMC blue" from Eastwood and this is what it looked like: sorta turquoise? :dunno:

since you removed & replaced the distributor, are you sure that you indexed it correctly when reinstalling it? if it's far enough off, the engine will crank all day but not run.

as above- go local (4wheelparts should have hi-lifts if a smaller private shop doesn't) or summitracing.com charges $9 flat rate for shipping.

i had the chain start slipping in my 242- i replaced that, and while it was out i replaced the input bearing/seal and front & rear output bearings/seals. cleaned it up, reassembled, reinstalled and have been running it for 2 years without any problems.

i like the idea of a north county M&G... but i have school (miramar college) Mon-Thurs nights :rattle: fortunately, it's a lecture followed by lab so depending on what time the M&G is, I might be able to sneak out of the lab for an hour or so to say hi.

Follow up for reference sake: I installed Ford 24 lb/hr injectors, did a tune-up (new plugs, air filter & oil change), replaced the O2 sensor (which tested bad- no continuity in the heating element), repaired a couple of cracked vacuum lines (which fixed my wandering idle), tested various other...

Not sure if this should be Mod or OEM.. but it involves a modified engine, so here it is :D '87 XJ 4.0L stroked & bored to 4.6, AW4 auto. I miserably failed my smog test today. Readings were: HC PPM@15mph: Max 133, GP 321, Meas. 143 HC PPM@25mph: Max 104, GP 271, Meas. 139 CO %@15mph: Max...

i ordered the mastercraft mounting bracket kit for my '87 as well... good news is you retain all of the adjustability (front-to-back, and the rocker). bad news is, i had to cut apart & reweld the bracket and drill my own holes. would have been cheaper to buy some angle iron and make them from...

XJ D44 shafts are the same as TJ D44 shafts.

good luck finding parking :rattle:

ditto.

i've moved since i first voted.... recount?

no problems with my Spicer gear set after 2+ years.

also check the valve cover gasket... it leaks down the back of the engine and is a dead ringer for a rear mail seal leak. besides, it's a cheap gasket and about an hour's worth of work. no biggie if it doesn't solve the problem :D

i used Molex connectors on my removeable doors: i also relocated the speakers using kick-panel speaker pods i found on ebay, so the wires only handle the power windows & locks. there's more than enough room left in the connectors to handle speakers as well.

if the t-case bezel has 4HI-N-4LO, it's the 249... if it's got 2HI-4HI-N-4LO, it's the 242. another thing to watch out for if you're looking at an older 242 t-case is the spline counts (21 vs. 23, IIRC- a search will show more info) HTH

i'm not sure of all the specifics- i bought my u-bolt yokes on ebay... like this one here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-44-pinion-yoke-1310-series-Ford-Chevy-Dodge-4wd_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQitemZ8002081723QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

fwiw: my spare is mounted on a 15" steel wheel (AR767)... when i had to put it up front due to a flat, the wheel rubbed the caliper.... just barely, but it rubbed. i'm using the old-style WJ calipers (Teves), and they have not been ground down at all. my regular wheels are MT Classic II, 16"