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That's good. You win. If you're ever out in western Colorado I'll buy you a beer.

"blah, blah, blah" Sounds more like your build thread. Good fab skills by the way, but sixty some pages of your life story and every nut and bolt? Come on.

These were almost new take-offs from a friend's Jeep and they're (more than) several years old. I've tried to find a source for new ones, but you're right, they don't seem to be available. If you Google them a place called TireSize.com comes up with a picture and full description. They're good...

And you're not gonna be happy with 3.73s and those new tires anyway.

The op's initial question was a simple one, which was whether you CAN (emphasis mine) run 33s on a four and a half inch long arm lift without trimming the fenders. His second post reiterated that he was somewhat adamant about not trimming. And he didn't ask anyone's opinion on whether it would...

For you two; believe me, I ain't no kid, and I was telling the op how my Jeep is equipped and that it works well for me. And where I go, stock height would never cut it and my "non standard" (by your almighty definition) 33s keep the diffs off the rocks. I've had CJs, heavily modified early...

I've been doing it for years. Totally uncut fenders with stock flares. Turns lock to lock. See posts 7 and 10. My God, what was I thinking!

I just read your entire build thread the other day and all I can say is "wow!" Amazing skill and great Jeep.

Maybe he just doesn't want to cut it up. I'm just sayin' what's been working for me for over three years with no issues in the mountains. The body on mine is so clean I don't want to cut it if it's not necessary and, so far, so good. And with the skinny tires and Ranger wheels I have full...

Rough Country 4.5" long arm with BFG 33x9.50x15 All Terrains on a '92. No rubbing and no bumpstops yet. I don't do any rock crawling, but it's my Rocky Mountain hunting vehicle so it sees some rugged terrain. Running Ford Ranger wheels which tuck in pretty close... that helps. One day I'll...

When you get that axle, (get one with disc brakes), try to get the companion flange off the donor vehicle's driveshaft. You can use that and a 1310/1330 conversion U joint (Google it) to bolt up to a stock type 1310 driveshaft. No expensive pinion yoke to purchase that way, and no worry about...

The right side of your crossmember appears to be attached with one bolt and maybe a weld!? Hard to tell on my Kindle. R/C crossmember should have a separate bracket that wraps around the side of the rail for reinforcement.

Are you absolutely certain that the bearing cones are fully seated on the carrier?

From Lokka's website= 8.25 27 spline $295, p/n JEE-RO-241. You have to put in the correct year jeep in the search. The 29 spline is $250.

Those are good steps. Hope it works. I had an early Bronco on 35s that drove me nuts with D/W. Finally had to move the inner "C"s for more caster and that did the trick. Are you anywhere near Carlisle?

Exactly. More caster- up to a point- acts to make the steering return to center and makes the vehicle more stable and less apt to wander. It can also help with death wobble. There's a compromise with the front differential u joint angle though which can introduce driveline vibration if that...

Whatever the cause, we gave him two pages of advice and now he's dumped us! How sad.

Glad to hear you got it under control. Looks okay!

I don't think the camber issue would cause your death wobble, but it could be addressed with an offset ball joint. What is your caster setting? Try to get as much caster as possible while avoiding front driveshaft vibration. Kind of a juggling act. Tires worn evenly, balanced? Be sure there is...

I've used silicone "adhesive sealant" a couple times when installing differential covers when I had nothing else handy and you would almost think they were epoxied on when it came time to remove them. Glad to hear you got it squared away. Did the old bearing have many miles on it? Be sure the...