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Thanks for pic very helpful.

My son wore through his front brakes, popping a piston L/F caliper. Replaced all brakes, but couldn't gravity bleed R/F caliper. Tried to force bleed the caliper to no avail. Started Jeep and depressed brake pedal feeling there was a leak to which i thought it was a bad master cylinder. saw that...

I had a similar issue. Mine happened to be some sort of glaze on the battery posts that was clear. No visible acid build up at all. The battery was replaced 5 months earlier. I had 12v at battery and at the starter, when someone would hit the ignition it would just do nothing. Clean your cables...

I separated trans and engine. set the a/c off to the side as well as the power steering. with a tilting bracket was able to sneak it out. I have a 3" lift on 31's.

Very informative thread! Dealing with a '93 XJ no start with power to nothing except key buzzer. My son said someone helped jump him in which it ran for 45 seconds then died. Battery is 3 months and is holding 12.7 volts. I thought ign switch to no avail. i'll be looking over some of the other...

Forgot to mention. It was jumped and it started but only ran for maybe 30 seconds.

Ok, I tried using the search didn't see anything for 3 pages... I've got a '93 XJ 2wd. Battery has 12 volt and was just replaced 3 months ago. I've got power to the key with the buzzer sounding off, but no lights, wipers, fuel pump and no start. I threw a new ign switch in since I replaced the...

we charge less for a diff install than a regear or rebuild. but if you do have a regear planned for near future, wait. you also didn't mention which axle you have or your ability.

we flush with mineral spirits and scrub out center section and tubes. blow them out with compressed air and still have some small amounts of metal.

You should be able to remove the bushing and replace with bearing. The Dodge one he is talking about can be swapped. This should be too.

lol, yes . I can only say after doing so many over the years, it obviously makes it easier.

Your unitized bearing assembly may be causing this. One may have preload still other may be on the way out.

Dana 35 and Chry 8.25 use the same clutches. The preload discs broke, thats normal with a bunch of miles. You won't be able to rebuild it in the housing. If you mark the adjusters or measure backlash you should be fine with removing the diff. Lube up the clutches with the additive or syn gear...

I bought my '99 XJ off my boss due to clacking noise from motor. He was on a road trip when it started and ended up driving over a thousand miles. i thought it might be a bad head gasket forcing compression back and forth between joining cylinders. Had that happen on a nissan pick up. Ended up...

my 44 had the carrier bearing cups spin in the caps. this caused ridges in the housing, which made pulling the carrier a pain the butt. there is a tool that we use take the ridges out of 60's, 70's and 80's.

I'm running 4.11s on 245/75/16. Right now your Xj is set up to do 200mph, lol. You are actually putting a lot of pressure on the engine and transmission with the 3.07s. It takes more pedal and effort to get the tires moving. Matching tires and gears is what you want to do, even if it means...

I had a spring fail and the adjustor lock and adjustor flowing around in the drum getting caught every once in a while.

I agree removing the front wheel bearings, then being retightened is what I'm thinking.

831_xj is right, when using 3.73 gears and higher gears you need a 706008x carrier from Dana or locker of correct flange height. 3.54 gears use a 706007x.

First things first spider gears don't move or turn in the carrier going straight down the road. They only turn in the curves. If you had a bent axle flange, that would be make the wheel and tire wobble all the time. If the rear axle was causing the vibration either the carrier or the pinion gear...