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It was M8 x 1.25, for posterity.

Yeah I grabbed a M8 x 1.25 to try. I'll see if that works. The bellhousing to block bolts are 3/8 but that's into good ol' American cast iron. Whereas this bolt is into the Japanese AW4.

What's the size of the bolt holding the trans fill tube to the bell housing? The XJ I bought recently doesn't have one. 5/16 coarse? Also does the vent tube for the transfer case bolt there too? I'm use to the AX15 so unsure on this one.

I concur. Seems to be pointing to the right front wheel bearing.

What year? Also yes driving with a misfire will overheat and internally melt a cat, plugging it.

How was your fuel filter? If it has ever been run without a filter or with a very plugged filter it doesn't take much to plug the injectors. Obviously first check your spark and air but plugged injectors are not uncommon.

I had to redo the entire fuse block on my 86 as the clutch master was leaking on top of it and destroying the plastic. I grabbed one out of a 93 and meticulously matched wires. Try to get one out of the same year to make life a lot easier. http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=334 This is a 93...

Check for loose/disintegrated vacuum lines as well. Could be getting a big gulp of unexpected air when its trying to move the blend door.

Mine is not a renix so I don't know. The 4.0 and all control came from a 93 YJ.

Just realized I Left this thread dead for a very long time without giving a resolution. After going through several checks I narrowed it down to the "new" cam sensor in the distributor. I bought a new Mopar one and haven't had issues since. It seems we all have to go through the "don't buy parts...

I have used this a ton. My first XJ is an 86 that has a 93 YJ motor/drivetrain that the previous owner had done a poor job integrating. I was able to really clean things up with these wiring diagrams. http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=334 You can take the ASD relay out of the picture. There...

There really is a ton of engineering that goes into designing cooling systems in vehicles, even something as archaic as our XJ's. Changing grills, air dams, fans and such dont always have the effect we want. A fan or fans that can move 6000 cfm sound great but if there is nowhere for that much...

Biggest indication would be slop in the joints. They can clunk and tick some if loose. Crawl back under and see if you can move your shafts around any. If they are original they can also be seized. Both my fronts looked and felt fine on the ground but once up in the air I had a hard time turning...

Definitely would start with grounds.

I believe you are referring to the expansion valve. Does the same thing as an orifice tube in later models.

I've cleaned and checked all the grounds. I'll check all that out when it gets warmer again. Thanks

1986 XJ with 93 YJ 4.0 and AX15. Died on my way to work back in December. Crank but no start. Restarted several hours later and now will die after driving for about 1/2 an hour. I can get it to restart by disconnecting the batt for about 60 seconds. Only throwing code 33 and 12. Fuel pressure...

I'd also strongly consider a lean burn condition. Being a 98 it should have two 02 sensors, precat and after cat. If the computer is still reading the second sensor as if the cat is still there it could be pulling fuel trims. I can't remember exactly but the second 02 sensor checks the condition...

If you're gonna go through all the trouble of trying to swap all internals you should just change your pinion bearing. Even that would be easier than swapping all the other stuff like outer knuckles, brakes and axle shafts.

Easy way to check cat is pull the upstream O2 sensor and if it runs better it is probably a plugged cat. It will throw a code but it's an easy way to check.