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Re: Frame stiffeners I'd reccomend TNT just add some holes for plug/rosette welds and you'll win over some more business. I certainly don't want to plug weld 120 of them, but maybe 15-20 per side might be worth it.

I was referring to them installed. I want to see how that rear bend works with the fender. Depending on how much trimming I do, maybe that piece won't be needed. A pics of the install is priceless.

2 years later any pics and opinions on how they are? Are they still available? I couldn't find them on their site.

I believe Rotella works best in classic cars where zinc (and leaded gas) were needed. Also, a injected engine's computer deals with alot of other factors that a carb engine can't. People were having issues with "wiping cam lobes" with newer oils. I can't say anything about cat problems, but...

How do these compare to a Rubicon Express 4.5" spring? Is one design better than the other? Are they worth $50 more per pack?

Though not ideal, a thin layer of rust won't effect the cooling performance if everything is in good shape. Keep it on a good maint. schedule and all's well.

Where is you get that fender? Neat looking. I'd like to see a Poison Spider tube style flatty design.

Different axles have different housing diameters. Different size U-bolts.

Is it actually coming in through the door seal? There's a number of other places it can come in too.

Is a open carrier more desirable because you can put a lunchbox locker in or weld it Lincoln Locker style? A LSD you need a new carrier to get a locker right?

#4699

So is it advisable to go with a OME HD spring pack w/ a higher lb./sq.in. ?

I doubt any vehicle is designed to be driven w/ the e-brake on. Not a valid test. Any spring will do that. Obviously, the stiffer the spring, the less deflection.

Why bother disco the coil? Low pressure line isn't going to shoot out that much fluid at once, is it?

After all that I'm going to put new lines on and hope for the best. I'm guessing 144k miles on OEM fluid probably ate the lines or clogged beyond reason......

Have one person pouring fluid in the the res. (so no air is entering the system)while one turns the wheel from lock to lock. Only disconnect the, low pressure, return hose.

That's the low pressure hose coming off the bottom of the PS pump? I'm at work and don't have any reference right now.

I've used a turkey baster to get the resevoir fluid out, but still no difference. Do you just pop off the PS hoses to drain the rest? Or take off the pump and do it that way? I might order new PS hoses in hopes that I have a clog in the hoses. Any other ways to figure out if the pump is bad...

Use the search feature and you may find out why XJ leafs are desired...

Not more than $80 or whatever you said. Heck, new leafs are $150 so anything more than $75 is too much for me for used, unless it was a RE lift pack or OME (or better)