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Subscribed. When my '90 did this I pulled the fuel pump relay and added a toggle switch putting power to the pump. Looking forward to a real solution. Tommy

the fuel pump relay isnt getting power, so i have ran a fused, jumper wire with a toggle swtich to the place where pin 87 on the relay would go. flip the switch on, start the jeep; shut the jeep off, flip the switch off. its workin for me now

similar problem... my '90 does the same thing, you can pull the fuel pump relay and put a jumper wire from pin 30 to 87. putting power to the resistor ballast will keep mine running, but the jumper wire will not any suggestions? Tommy

just swap the long block, keep your stock intake/exhaust and senders

I did that once, it sucked http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVKrzaH9nOk the tree root would bounce the front, and then everything would go to hell quick. moving the rear shock mounts is quick and easy. up front run stock or with extenders. HTH Tommy

They call it "Full-Time" because you can drive in it full time on higher traction surfaces. The 3 differentials (front axle, transfer case, rear axle) keep the driveline from binding up and damaging parts. When locking the front axle, it will bind in turns, while the driveshafts and rear axle...

NAPA rocks... Measured the ID of the axle tube (2.0") and the OD of the shaft (1.19") they gave me the CR11800 and it fit perfect in an '88 housing with Yukon 4340 shafts Tommy

This is my '90 XJ that I've been playing with off and on for the past year. With the Jeep nearing the end of its first re-working, I wanted to post a few pictures. The is how she looked when it was purchased (April 15, 06) 230k, 31s, 4" or 5" lift? Quickly cut the fenders, tossed the...

I'm saving the little guy for the future, when the XJ dies and a bling bling little truggy is born. I just sold a 30, 35, Renix 4.0, and a brake proporting valve... I'm over halfway to Alloy shaft land Tommy

I recently added longer brake lines, and after checking XJ vs. YJ vs. TJ @ the local NAPA. TJ and XJ have the same part numbers, but the YJ is longer Tommy

sold some parts... looking to purchase shafts with 297x Tommy

2 wheeling trips are with in 2hr of home.. 1 is pretty close to school.. Colorado is because a buddy wants to go badly. I purchased 3 4wd XJs (without transfercases) and 1 2wd MJ for under $100 each and I have been slowly parting them out for better jeep stuff. That is the reason I was going to...

Ordered a Powertrax today... Thanks everyone Tommy

I'm pretty easy on it and mostly it runs on the farm (like an oversized four-wheeler). It will go to Hannibal Rocks, Flat Nasty, Kansas Rocks and maybe even a Colorado wheeling trip this year. I was just concerned because a friend keeps snapping 297X joints with 32s, but he is very rough on his...

Thinking about adding a Powertrax to my D30, but I’m concerned with u-joint life. Currently running 34” LTBs with 260X joints, and I know that the 260X is the weak link, but how might they last? I have several spares (3 right, 2 left) but I really don’t want to swap shafts multiple times a day...

I remember when the Travis (previous owner) PAID A SHOP to do that swap. The funniest part was the pitman arm welded to the knuckle. Tommy P.S. it looked good in Crawl.

This is another one, alittle cleaner looking http://www.roadarmor.com/ra3/summitsut.html

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/diagram.gif http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=552761 Im going to try and do the same thing soon Tommy

1) Its ok as long as it is slippery 2) 84-86 had a GKN front driveshaft. the can is the constant velocity joint. 3) looks like it should just unbolt from the flange on the case using 4 bolts. you would probably be better off swapping to the 87+ driveshaft and front output yoke, just find one...

something I made one weekend... 3/4" shackels and 2" reciever. made from 2x4 and 2x3 tube