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my power door locks only recently started working again :D and i have the dreaded door sag that i haven't dealt with yet. but in the past couple weeks (as far as i can tell) the driver's door locks itself when being closed. ?? :wierd: is this a "feature"? i've locked my keys in the car...

third new switch and the fogs are working.

i've been trying to debug my locks for years. i finally tore down the hatch, unplugged the actuator, hoping it was that one, the cheapest. door locks still don't work. i get that click in the PDM. so i unplugged the passenger front door lock actuator/latch thing. power door locks then...

hitch is on the XJ. can't get the pin out.

hitch receiver and hitch are pretty much one piece. i cut off the pin at both sides but it won't budge. took the torch to the receiver and used my air chisel, but the pin still won't budge. think it's worth trying anything else to get the hitch out of the receiver? crap, can't attach an...

oh yeah. duh. thanks!

I have a 99 with power windows. will the front windows from a gen1 xj fit mine? will the manual windows fit the models with power windows? some tweaker did a smash and grab over the weekend. :smsoap:

You are right. Sawsall cut it in thirds and air chisel got it out. Amazing how much it was fused in there!

come to think of it... why do they sell these with poly at all? wouldn't i prefer rubber bushings??? FML. now that i've all but destroyed the stock bushing sleeve. does the oem bushing set come with a sleeve?

so last week i did the daystar 1.75" front lift. kinda easy despite the prolific rust holding my truck together... on to the back. other issues, cut bolts etc, but then a real mystery: pressed out the old leaf spring bushing and it left that outer metal sleeve there. the daystar bushings...

i got new poly bushings (and sleeves, and grease fitting bolts) with the shackle kit for the spring eye. do i have to remove that outer metal sleeve that was outside the old bushings? that doesn't seem to make sense, and i doubt i could without a hydraulic press and a special adapter...

got these cut out, but NO ONE near me has these bolts. none of the auto parts stores. the big ACE hardware had one that was similar but it didn't look like it was threaded far enough up the shaft. in addition it wasn't a shoulder bolt but a standard hex head bolt. can i use one of those with...

how many sawsall metal blades does it take to cut through a hardened steel bolt like that? i don't think my air cut off tool is gonna get in there...

cut it off with a cutoff wheel btwn shackle and frame on both sides? what size bolt is it and can i get it at my local hw store? thanks for the reply!

help! on the rear spring shackle the upper bolt and sleeve are all rusty, the bolt is all the way out of the nut but now just spins with the bushing sleeve which is probably stuck/bound to the bolt. i put my pickle fork/air hammer on the bolt head, used a plumbing wrench and wailed on it with...

if there really is that sweet spot i'll try that again sometime. i tried and couldn't find it. w/ regard to the impact wrench/breaker bar on the frame side... how? it's inside that cup hanging off the frame rail up in the bay surrounded by steering linkage and the oil pan. thanks again for...

thanks. i had the sway bar links removed previously, and unbolted the bottom of the shock. i used the spring compressors but to get more clearance i put my bottle jack between the axle and the frame. worked great. no way that castle nut for the track bar is coming off the "traditional" way...

hi all. i'm trying to put a 1.75" econo lift on my 1999 XJ. it's a VT car, and is thus a ball of rust underneath. it's pretty obvious that none of the suspension stuff has ever been removed. i'm working on the front... i got the shock bolts off the bottom, and the sway bar upper nuts off...

How hard is it to pull the pump?

sweet. i'ma try that on mine too:yelclap: