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Thought about doing this with 2x Optima 6v batteries in series as an aux/secondary battery setup, but never did. If you’re intending on them replacing your cranking battery, make sure the resulting specs are on-point and don’t skimp on cabling.

I run said setup with a V8 ZJ drag link and tie rod. With regard to control arms, I run the RE drop brackets (and reinforcement brackets) with JKS 6100 and 7100 control arms (apparently no longer available). Got my pinion angle and caster dialed in, and I can run 33's without a steering...

The only way excessive camber should come into play in your situation would be with a bent axle housing, offset/adjustable ball joints (relatively uncommon, but available), or an improperly seated unit bearing (which could happen if the unit bearing spacer was not 100% flush with the original...

And to elaborate more… the 232 crank (72+ with the “C-ring”, almost assuredly the flex plate/flywheel centering ring as suggested by 75SV1) was just fine. It was just that POS remanufactured torque converter that was the problem. Unfortunately I bought it 3+ years ago and can’t figure out who I...

Threw in the new TC and things look great… no binding whatsoever.

Suspicions confirmed: https://imgur.com/a/DtveaHV Definite scarring on the snout… called O’Reilly and had them pull the 2 TC’s they had in their local warehouse, and I’m glad I did. One was scarred and painted like this one, and the other had a nicely-machined clean snout measuring exactly...

Ahh, balls. Figured it out. It's the AC high pressure switch connector... and I haven't installed all that plumbing yet. Sorry 'bout that.

Not the battery temp sensor (that's a 2-pin connector, and is already installed)... Wire colors appear to be BLK/RD, BLU/RD, and 2x green wires (no visible stripes but they could just be filthy). Gonna dig through the FSM and see if I can find anything relevant.

Nope. It’s installed. Picked up a transmission jack yesterday, so I’ll be dropping it tomorrow and taking some measurements. I’m 99.99999% sure I got the TC fully seated in the transmission, and fear the snout is indeed the issue… I’ll check it and the crank counterbore and report my findings.

That’s my understanding as well… but for some reason, there’s a gap between the pads and the flex plate. The snout has to be the point of contact. I picked up a transmission jack earlier so I’ll be able to take a closer look… honestly, I can’t think of another explanation.

Correct - the flex plate and TC aren’t bolted to each other yet, but I can see the pads on the TC (4 total, where the bolts thread in) are about 3/16” to 1/4” away from the fleet plate. Leads me to believe the snout isn’t seating into the crankshaft counterbore.

Yeah… my understanding is that all the 72+ AMC I6 cranks have the same rear flange… just different snout lengths (long on early models, presumably due to V-belts).

Awesome, thanks man! Mine definitely has the centering ring… so I must’ve botched the installation. Guess it’s time to drop the friggin transmission and figure out what happened.

Looking at Clegg's site, this is the one I ordered: https://www.cleggengine.com/crankshafts/72-79-amc-jeep-232-3-8l-i6-crankshaft-kit-amc-25220.html In the description, it states 'AMC ENGINE WITH "C" RING'. Any clue what C-ring even means? Apparently 64-71 models did not have...

Just found the invoice for the crank... Bought it from Clegg back in 2017, with a description of "72-79 AMC/JEEP 232/3.8L I6 Crankshaft Kit". Based on this... it *should* have the same counterbore as a 242 crank right? Sorry, out of town right now and just trying to think of what I could have...

I loved Duratracs for years if you’re daily driving. For a toy vehicle, I’m leaning toward BFG KM3’s as of late. A little noisier on asphalt, but fantastic in dirt, mud, and rocks in my experience.

And I just checked the box - torque converter is indeed a TO28.

Shit, it’s been long enough I can’t remember my exact specs. Went .040” over, local machinist decided he couldn’t dish my pistons to 22cc’s and mounted them anyway, so I bit the bullet and came up with a custom cam profile between Comp and Pottinger that deals with something like 10.3:1 static...

Pretty sure mine is a late-model crank, with 76-78 sounding most familiar (it’ll take me some digging to find the receipt). Happen to have a link to a thread discussing the AW4 issues?

Ah, ok. That makes more sense. Now I’m wondering why the thing is contacting the flex plate (almost certainly the snout is), leaving the pads that far away from it (leaning toward 1/4”). Is it possible the thing sagged a bit and is hooking the edge of the crank counterbore? Also, the thing...