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Solution was a bad solenoid in the valve body. Worked with the TCM.

I had similar issues and determined that with 220,000 miles that maybe the control arm bushings were worn. Did a 3.5 inch lift with new tie rod ends, adjustable track bar, and upper and lower control arms. Better than new.

Do a search on Propane as a refrigerant. It was the initial refrigerant before there was R12 or R134a. The only issue is its flamability.

New TCM now with 0700 code. Reman TCM.

Did you check the 12V supply to the sockets of the relays? I was diagnosing a no start and found a lack of 12V to the fuel relay. After replacing the CPS, it started right up.

But mostly TIM_MN!

RCP_Phx thanks for your help!

Fuse issue for fuel pump power.. Suspect intermittent CPS as initial no start condition. All gauges functional. PCM/TCM CCD (+,-) lines less than 1 ohm. TCM on order.

Ioh other than the fuel gauge, all check lights come on one off as usual when in run position.

Will check per above. Notes: Cps new and checked No RKE No fuel gage with or without CPS connected. No power to the fuel pump at the connector. Tested pump with 12 volt supply and it operated indicator. Is that that there's a connector problem as there is no reading for fuel level?.

Connected power to the fuel pump and it ran. Checked relay by swapping with others and it is good. Checked power to the relay with ignition on, slightly less than 12v. No pressure in the fuel rail. two codes, 753 and 1694. PNW vehicle that is extremely clean in terms of corrosion but unplugged...

Having this problem with the Jeep. Suspect bad fuel pump. - After cranking, check fuel pressure by depressing teh relief valve with only a trickle of gas. No fuel rail pressure. Also checked relay which is good. Other checks? Looks like I need to drop the tank and hitch.

Now the rest of the story. First part showed up on time, the regulator. Took the old one off and soldered the new one on to the brush assembly. Delay on the diode assembly. Delayed again. I needed to get it together to get to the airport on Saturday for a 6:45 flight. This is Thursday. The...

Been running BFG ATs for a long time, I think 25 years. Put a set on a 1998 Durango, lost 2mpg as a result!

Parts (both) are on order. One of two alternators has been disassembled. An excuse for a Weller 200watt solder gun has been acquired. Just need to the part to assemble. If it works out, I will rebuild the one in the Jeep now.

since I don't have any voltage from my alternator, could my fusable link be blown? If so where is it?

Did you use both? I am curious which one really solves the problem. I would rather spend $13 than $50 at which point a complete alternator becomes a likely better option.

There are two offerings. The first is just the regulator for <$14, https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Voltage-Regulator-Delco-Alternators/dp/B00BKW1JNO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1N24KY1DSMDZ4&keywords=cs130+regulator&qid=1660745624&s=automotive&sprefix=cs+130+regulator%2Cautomotive%2C39&sr=1-2, and then there...

The kit looks like a good investment. I am going to consider it. Cruiser54. Your description sounds like a labor-intensive effort but at a lower cost than the kit.

Given the this XJ was purchased new in 1990 and just got a lift, I doubt I will be seeing anything really serious. I would like to improve on the current configuration. If adding the H&T would improve the vibration (very small) and ensure proper engagement for the added height, I would be happy...