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I left a few years ago when it started going south in my opinion, and only recently came back just to see whats new- so whats new? no one uses the search- same questions asked again and again- and a crop of people who dont know a wrench from a screwdriver, but want to know how to change a...

return line? main line comes back to the weight/height valve, splits into two- one per wheel.....you have a return line? always remember- anytime you break open a line and loose all the pressure, you have to reset the proportioning valve- instead of useing the tool- that mysterious tool that...

clean them both-same time- throttle body cleaner an a toothbrush for the TB itself, and remove the IAC, clean the pintle, clean the bore/seat- reinstall- start-drive.

PORC was looking for help awhile back- Alex is always busy.

Tugalo- your private messaging box wont accept- unblock it- I couldnt respond to you-

possibly ignition related- you say that when you turn the key, you have no fuel pump sound- listen for the relay to click- no click? no power- no power, no ignition- Gauges "pegging" when shutting off is common- *if* the ignition box is close to being shot/out of adjustment, it "might" cause a...

I`ll be the oddball- Ive been using a Sears vacuum/pressure gauge for that purpose for years with no problem- I dunno what its got on the insides, but gas dont hurt it-

<--- loves renix. understands its not a "stupid renix" thing, because Ive never had a problem fixing them, unfortunatly the people who fix them dont visit the OEM forum often enough- renix should be spelled "SIMPLE". voltmeter-ohmsmeter-vac/pressure gague and a few screwdrivers....its all...

remove the two little torq screws- pull the IAC out backwards- try not to hurt the gasket. take some gas- or tolulene-whatever, and clean the pintle off- (remove carbon) wipe clean- feel for any groove on the pintle- got groove?get new IAC. Before re-inserting IAC, reach into the bore and...

Renix=easier to work on- simple as that. If you know how. If your starting from scratch, farrrrr easier. Change the oil, clean the necessary parts- fill with gas, and drive it. If it wont start, the list of things to check is simplistic- If an HO wont start...well, that list gets long in a...

what would cause it? the same reaction of shutting of and restarting the engine- even though he cycled the igniton switch fast enough to not stall it, the computer knew it was off- Idles that climb are either IAC or vacuum leak related on all the ones Ive played with-there was a recall-...

<---- used Fram on old xj- sold at 300,000+ and useing fram on the Mj now, at 250,000+ In my book of lore, if the oil changes color drasticly, its time to change it-my gauge will jump around when it starts to go bad-but sits steady when its good.... This is the first winter its gotten cold...

I changed mine out at 240,000 with 2 leaking Wayne- made a drastic difference. I went with HO Motorsport ones out in California, but most people swap in the ford mustang ones- and yes, with that many miles it pays to do them all at once.

I remember reading about it, but it was in relation to the hesco kit- if I remember right, there was an entire paragraph that stated something about the closeness of the sensor to the wheel made the signal superior to what a renix system produces- there were some mods to move the sensor...

Cleaning one is easy, but I dont lube mine. Some say it destroys the insides, others say it works wonders. Remove the IAC, and wash the pintle off. Use Toluene or Deep Creep (xylene works, but is slower- common throttlebody cleaner and a toothbroush are you friends))- gas works as well-...

I think your talking about about the difference between airflow around the coil, and through the coil- when you set full heat, there will be a difference in airflow simply because theres an obstruction- the coil fins the air passes through- although to me, it shouldnt be as noticeable as you...

could be the resistor that controls fan speed- but usually on "high" you get nothing with a bad one- I'm not real familiar with anything above a 91, but on ours- there is always the problem of vacuum opening flaps/diverters to get full blow-

Jack it up one side at a time and throw a block under each tire- I use drive on jackstands and take the air out of the front tires- Having the little hole at 12 high lets the air pass, because the air is at the highest point- unless your jeep is upside down, at which point you wont care much...

you changed the CPS, but did you test it with an ohms meter? theres two *main* things that make the spark that we check first- The CPS (and the RPMs needed to wake it up) and the ignition- gets harder from there, but we rarely go that far- actually, any time mine did a start, then die, then not...

When I was here a few years back, there was a few ECUs replaced- but i do remember someone finding out that in renix era ECUs, it ended up being something simple that just needed a little re-solder to bring it back to life- recently, I havent heard of any failures- in a long time.