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On parkway, engine begins straining to maintain speed, finally can't get above thirty, idles like new though. Towed home, idling fine in my garage, but even under no load major breaking up when throttled. I began disconnecting electrical connectors that attach to throttle body, then the one...

for years had an RE 4.5" lift, nonadjust. upper and lower control arms. a little bit of shimming with an sye perfected the rear driveshaft, but I've always had somewhat noticable vibes up front, nothing to alarm me. Also don't use 4wd all too often so was never an issue. now that i think...

Please bear with me so I don't confuse you, I'm confused myself... Assembled rear driveshaft cv joint last nite ('bout 2:00am), there's a sleeve that protects the ball/spring/socket in the cv joint. Narrow metal base, about 1.5 inches long rubber piece, you get the picture. Installed this...

mikeny59 #300 thanks

Does one have to replace the crush sleeve when doing this job, or can you get away with an accurate index mark and no impact gun? About 35k ago on the road I grenaded the rear ujoint/yoke, moron that replaced yoke (old seal still there) just ran it up with an impact gun, but has been quiet ever...

Napa lists like four for my '98 4.0, any manufacturer, p/n, source, oem/dealer? Napa cheapest is like $60. Thanks...

In a walnut shell, here's the deal; Presently, 4.5" lift w/sye, smallish shim (eight-years ago so don't shoot me, don't remember *'s), no vibes to speak of at all w/shim. Need to add the above block to compensate for imbelic decision (about 900lbs. of construction materials that sagged a great...

the one I used in the past, from a file on my computer. is it too violent?!? what gives?!? :bawl:

The nut is new/self-locking, don't want to "guestimate" torque setting with Loctite, can I just torque down the nut with clean dry threads and rely on locknut to hold things together? Seems that's the way oem did it... Thanks...

...while I torque the new and improved "integral" nut/washer. Any ideas?!? thank you...

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went bad after I cleaned and dialectrically greased connector, I kid you not. Should I replace cat 02 sensor? The latter Bosch unit retailed for $78 :scared: Thank you...

Can't reach FSM and/or recommended torque setting for D30 pinion nut with red loctite. duh :nono: Now thinkin' that light oil or anti-sneeze is standard practice, no?!? Thanks, need answer soon :rattle:

Scenario: Just switched out old Platinum 4's w/same, perfect condition, perfect color, preventive maintenance. No problems, then while beneath engine decide to clean and apply dialectric grease to 4-pin connector that appears to go between first 02 sensor and to fuel rail, splits off to temp...

notched yoke thread and nut, of course :D Just installed front drive shaft but now noticed that there's appreciable in/out play of pinion yoke (1/8" to 1/16" ish) into diff housing. When I originally reinstalled the pinion nut it got very tight, the torque wrench passed 160lbs. but didn't...

Will carry extra starter and alternator on trips to and from ny and fl., have starter, need alternator. Scenarios: 1. pull from boneyard 2. cheapo from Ottozone or PepPills Boys, etc... 3. local rebuilder. What would you do?!? Thanks,

Probably, but just bought distributor cap with brass contacts from NAPA yesterday for my '98... w/rotor about $21.

... lost patience and pulled rad shroud and fan clutch, '98 4.0. did idler pulley at same time, then I used a mapp gas torch to heat the blade of a utility knife blade and very neatly split the shroud horizontally. Plan on making it a two-piece entity. Anyways, ADD kicked it and decide to...

did my 4.5" lift w/only 3k on odometer, have the oem eccos in tha attic. My steel wheels are rusting, 4.5"bs, don't do much off-roading, especially knarly disconnect swaybar type of 'wheelin. Will my oem eccos work w/my 31"x10.5 bfg at"s? I'll never stuff the tires, believe you me. Anyone...