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Conclusion: I dug around on the internet for a while to find a threaded dual-throw brake switch, then promptly lost the part number. The XJ switch won't fit an FSJ I did, however, have the wiring scheme correct in my original post.

My experience, 31's and stock gears just sucks. There was a noticeable improvement going back down to 235/75/15 tires. I bet re-gearing to 4.10 will get you up the Appalachians. with 31's, 4.10 gears are comparable to stock - and stock got me around the Rockies just fine.

It's a 1995 trans / TCU I think I'm going to go to the wrecker and pull the brake switch and clip the pigtail, then wire per 1995 FSM

I'm reading the FSM and fairly sure I understand, but, if anyone can hold my hand and tell me one way or the other it'd help. I think what I'm reading is that on the brake switch connector, pin 5 is power in, it's normally "open" to pin 2 (brake lamps). Pin 4 is ground, normally closed to pin 3...

Go with a set of Moog OEM style arms, if you can weld, and weld a strap of steel along the bottom to box them in for strength. Poly sucks. I avoid it whenever possible. I've used it for sway bar links and motor mounts (twice) and it just sucks for a road car and it doesn't allow much...

I still have these in my garage, three years after selling the XJ. Make me an offer. They need a home. I'm in Grass Valley, CA - about an hour from Sacramento, an hour and a half to Reno

350 horse from 287 cubes is about 1.22 horse per cube. For perspective, that's the same ratio as a Chevy 350 making about 425 horsepower. I don't know the I6 well enough to say. Sounds doable. It's going to take 330 ft lbs at 5600 RPM, which sounds ambitious. Post burnout vids if you do it!

You can fit "some" 15" steel wheels, but not all of them, and if you have aluminum wheels they have to be 16" or larger. Use something like this to re-drill WJ brake rotors to 5x4.5 The WJ steering knuckle mounts the tie rod 3/4" lower than stock. The 93-98 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee pitman arm also...

That escalated quite a lot.

So, I'm cheap, and I like to make life harder. One great way to do this is to put a 4L80e where it isn't needed, and run it with cheap / available TCU that it isn't designed for. On the AW4 the solenoids are S1 S2 On Off First gear On On Second Off On Third Off Off...

Talk to Russ Pottenger. Build a stroker that will handle some boost and start there. If you still don't like it, a remote mount turbo won't require any more work to do later than it would have at the start.

Looking at this, I kind of wish my SJ had an I6 so I could build one too. Cool stuff.

Does the steering effort feel the same while parking? I'm wondering if you bought a pump with the wrong flow valve installed. I had a WJ for a while (big mistake. money pit) and put a new PS pump in it - it had the wrong valve and no PS systems (steering or hydraulic fan) worked at all. Put the...

Check torque on the pitman arm nut. 180 ft-lbs is spec. "Eff Me" tight also works, or seven "ugga duggas" on the impact gun.

It's been torn down for cleaning & check-out. Mid project I decided a Dana 60 was more like what I wanted. That's just how I roll. Anyway, it comes with a trac lok carrier + an open carrier, 3.54 gear set. I can put it back together with the open carrier if you want to go lunchbox locker or...

Unpopular viewpoint for a car-guy forum but I'd leave it alone. If you want better brakes, it's worthwhile to put ZJ rear disc brakes on it. Another step up in performance is the WJ front setup, though it gets expensive. If your tie rod is worn out, put a ZJ V8 solid tie rod on it. Don't lift...

I ran without rubbing at stock height on 30x9.50 tires. With 31's, i rubbed at 2" of lift. The Jeep also got *much* slower when trying to climb hills on the freeway - way more than the 1" would have led me to expect. If you have 2.5" or more lift, you'll probably be fine - but go into it knowing...

:( Custom cars, custom problems. Don't let it drag down the holiday - get after it in the new year and shoot some video of take-off.

You are talking about a wide band o2 sensor + gauge. Summit will have options for you.

I think I used a '98 Durango MC, want to say it was 1 1/8 bore. Pedal feel was awesome but you definitely notice, too, that you have to push harder for the same brake performance. I'm with you on the preference for a stiff, low travel pedal