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http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-fuel-system-parts/cherokee-xj.htm

Not in my case, once I got it moving it would get all the way to the end of the post and hang up, I had to file down the end and sides to get it to slide off.

Holy shit, it took me a couple of days to get my old one off! I ended up filing the post that comes out of the transmission down some, once I did that it slipped right off. The new one came in over the weekend, looks pretty darn good, I'll install it when it quits raining!

I think those two sites I posted are the same site. I went ahead and bought it, I found a coupon code and it ended up being $50 with shipping included. I'll report back when I get it.

I found someone on another forum that bought one and it has worked out okay. Mine is toast, too many years of snow and salt, I had to break it to get it to come out. I think I'm going to buy one, at the very least I can swap the wiper arms...

So I finally got around to fixing my no-start issues, and reverse lights. I still can't get the NSS switch off, and have already broken the lock nut threads. Looks like I might have to buy a replacement. I've always heard of NSS switches being really expensive, have they come down in price...

I've got line wrenches, it just seems hard to get a good bite on the bleeder where it's at, especially the rears.

YES!!! That's exactly what I was thinking, exactly! http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=262&store=snapon-store Now, is there a cheaper option from Craftsman...?

I bled my brakes for the second time this past weekend and every time I do it I get an uneasy feeling with the wrenches I'm using. They never feel like they bite that well. I tried to bend a wrench over so it would fit better, but ended up breaking it. Does anyone have any recommendations on box...

What's the proper procedure for checking the fluid? The owner's manual says to drive at least 15 miles to get it to operating temperature, 170*F (I think), then go through all gears and back into park. But, the dipstick says to check in neutral. So, which is it? I check in Park like the owner's...

Sounds like I'm good, we'll know more after I get the wheel cylinders changed.

Yeah, but I had the rear wheels on the dolly, and the front on the pavement :sad1:. Also, the tow truck driver used the seat belt to lock the steering wheel, but I don't think that's a big issue.

I've done lots of searching, and I'm more confused than ever.

Hi, I had a brake cylinder rust out and brake fluid was everywhere, so I ended up getting a tow. I have the 242 transfer case, and like a dummy left my owner's manual at home. I put the transfer case in neutral, the transmission in park, and towed it by the back wheels approximately 15 miles. Do...

Do you want the rubber bushing, or the metal part that attaches to the exhaust tubing?

My key fob stopped working and I thought it was the batteries, so I replaced them, and that didn't fix it. So I bought a new key fob thinking I would have it reprogrammed, but I switched the rubber material in between the buttons and the PCB and then it started working. Your rubber may be worn out!

Nice, mine is a 98. I'll let you know. Thanks! Does anyone think it *might* be the NSS?

We had a bunch of snow last week, and I went through the car wash last night. Well this morning, I had a check engine light on, and it won't shift into overdrive. The codes are: -Transmission control system malfunction -Transmission range sensor circuit malfuntion (PRNDL Input) I know my NSS...

I emailed Davey's Jeeps recently and they had the bezel, but it was slightly more than I wanted to pay for it (I picked one up from a junkyard but it had some rust on it). You may try emailing him: http://www.daveysjeeps.com/

Looks like these might work: 11.9 - 120.5 mm 7.0 x 0.6 mm http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=25 In the middle on the standard series.