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So, 20 months of running this combo now. Still trucking right along! Great mod for a DD. Only issue is some bucking when maneuvering in tight spaces in AWD under power. Coasting is fine. Anyways, for anyone looking to do the swap, I say go for it!
If the oil meets or supersedes the factory required service ratings, it passes the same tests and meets additive standards, so it wouldn't be crappy oil. Oils have to meet more numerous and strict standards, so I'm fine with store branded oils in my engines. I only use a premium quality filter...
Some of that 3k mile hype comes from Grandma. More old lady engines fail because of short tripping around town. The oil gets water condensation buildup and wear starts. My commute was 3 miles a day, four days a week, with two 150 mile trips on Thursday and Sunday. Oil stayed clear of...
Re: JKS Quick Disconnet Install Help
I probably would have put some heat on them too with the c-clamp, but we just moved and the budget doesn't allow for a torch set yet. Soon though, soon... :firedevil
This isn't a question. I spent last night searching for ideas to get the stud out of the axle mounts on my 1998 XJ. After bending a 6" c-clamp until the pad no longer contacted the jaw yesterday, I finally found something online, and I figured I'd put it up here and maybe help some folks out...
Got off my lazy, uh, well you know, this morning and checked it out. You can pull the panel at the top (under the back glass) out enough to reach in and do what you need to. My assembly had become so poorly adjusted that I had to stick a flat screw driver down into the actual latch mechanism...
I gave this a little try today in passing, didn't work. I'm going to try to work on it tomorrow. Been re-doing the seats for my K5 today and then took the old lady out for a drink this evening while my parents watched the kids. :cheers:
The back gate on my 2dr '98 won't open. I've worked the key back and forth in it trying in vain to find a "sweet spot" but nothing. I'm not sure what's going on but I was hoping you guys had some advice on how to open it. I was thinking about using a hole saw to cut in where I can reach in...
Ok, they are made of metal, they will rust. But flaking off in chunks and being able to pick it off with a screw driver? I was replacing a wheel bearing the other day and was amazed to see my knuckle rotting away like that. Maybe even alarmed... :dunno:
Particulars: Running ceramic pads...
Finally got my OME packs installed along with the new t-case. So far I really think I made the right decision. I've yet to pull a trailer with them, but the increase in spring rate has made it more comfortable to drive than my previous two sets of bastard packs. I'm trying to find an excuse...
NP242 is fixed. It was with out a doubt the hole leaking. It is also the perfect size for a 1/8" NPT tap. I used a nut driven on the back of a tap and a stubby ratcheting wrench to tap the hole, then installed a hex head 1/8" pipe plug. Test drove it up to about 55mph after wiping off the...
Where can I get a new one? Maybe drill and tap it something like 5/16 and use a super short bolt? What's behind the plug?
I wondered about that Jon, but this evening after work, I wiped all the dirt off the case down to bare aluminum all around the shifter and down under the case. Then I...
It's not a crack, it's a hole... But it looks like the hole is supposed to be there. The case is a NP242AMC, which means late 80's vintage (to me anyways) and it's in a 1998 Cherokee now. Just above (1/4") and about 3" forward of the selector arm on the side of the case, there is what appears...
Well, are 242's bad for cracking anywhere? The one I have is pouring out fluid. It looks like its coming from a casting mark on the bottom of the boss where the selector is. All the seals look nice and dry but the entire underside is wet and my back glass is covered too.