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I guess a better question is, is it OK for the alternator to be engaged 100% of the time? The regulator paperwork is sparse and just directs to system voltage hookup.

So I've fixed my recurring no-charge with a new alternator and external regulator. In addition, I have house batteries on an isolator (diode). The voltage drop across the isolator is about 1v -1.5v give or take. The question is, since the external voltage regulator is set to say, 14.5v in...

Interesting thought, if it’s a problem it’s the stud or prior to the stud, I’m metering off of it (ie. not the cables).

Added isolator back, everything works fine - guess my electrons were clogged

Ok, so riddle me this - I have a battery isolator, I figure, what the hell, I’ll bypass everything and go direct from alternator to main battery, cause maybe the electrons are jammed somewhere (mind you getting zero to .2 volts at the alternator post. So I disconnect everything and I hit the...

I’ve been having a no charge issue for some time now, I got the alternator replaced with a Powermaster factory refurb, and added an external voltage regulator, reworked some grounds, including adding an alternator to engine block ground. I’ve got the ignition source wire to the external...

https://www.popvox.com/us/federal/bills/115/hr6502 H.R. 6502, the Reducing Unnecessary Senior Hospitalizations Act of 2018 or the RUSH Act of 2018, is an extremely important bill in my industry that is currently under consideration. The link above provides a form letter and a means of...

Maybe just an external regulator at this point....have it on standby after I rip everything apart...

Yeah, "bronze" in color, I can't tell if it's rust or copper - isn't it an aluminum piece though? With respect to the rust on the driveshaft - living int he NE, it looks pretty much like every other one that I've seen, including my 95 YJ with 19k miles on it and rusted in half tube steps...

Why is the power steering hose bronze?

One is roughly battery voltage 12.5-11.3v and the other is a steady .7v. It actually worked for about 30 seconds this morning when I started it up but I was unable to grab field terminal readings while that was happening.

Factory refurbished alternator did not fix this issue - pulled the PCM connections and they were soggy, but not corroded, cleaned and dried them well and no change. Definitive diagnosis for PCM voltage regulator failure?

Well, I sent the alternator to Powermaster to test/repair and the allstars at Powermaster just sent me a new alternator. They deserve tremendous credit. I’m impressed.

Powermaster, if you want to upgrade a little

Also, PA requires that "off-road" lights be covered while on the road. I've been stopped for lights (while off) covered by brush guards and not opaque covers. Whether they are driving lights or off-road lights will be at the discretion of the cop and based on color, aim and mounting position.

You're going to run a wire direct to your main battery and either a) fuse it or b) buy an accessory fuse block so that you can jump one wire off of your battery and wire up multiple accessories now or in the future. I like this one...

The 20%'s generally don't work on the jacks...read the fine print :dunno:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1995,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180268,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

Looks like its not working again...spoke to the techs at Powermaster and they think PCM. Original question still stands I guess, whats the proper exciter voltage from the PCM?

You going to want to lift it? Would only want to pay for gears once.