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She's now belongs to Papercut. I really hope she treats you well. I really loved that thing, and it was hard to part with. I just didn't have anymore time, patience, money, or knuckle blood left. As or the smog prep, everything was done. The only thing I can think of is a hole in the...

Wow, this is a hotter item than I thought.... Anyway, as it stands now I'm going in the order substantial bids were proposed since they're all about the same ballpark. 1. Papercut 2. Tharlanjr 3. JohnX (I actually thought you were kidding, but I had PMs before that post) I hate...

Sorry, this should have been in the For Sale forum. Just realized. =( As for price, I have one soft offer for $500 cash, so I guess that's where the bidding would start. As for parting it out, that would only happen if at least one buyer wanted enough to pay more than $500 offer of driving it...

Depends what I can get whole vs. a really quick part out. It does have a dana 44 and a locked dana 30 with 4.56 gear and pretty new tires. If I can get more going that route, may do it. Right now it's still sitting at the smog shop waiting on a diagnostics. I should have more word...

Some of the ugly work from before me

I'll try and get some pics when it gets back from the smog shop. I'm going to have them do a $105 diagnosis. If they can't find the problem...I can give you a price once I get one from a scrapper. I know they go for as low as $100 to as high as $1000. With Regards to looks, mine isn't so...

Has a new engine, 6"+ lift, all RE components, 33" tires, rock rails, sye, etc. Many have seen it already. It's locked up front, but not in the rear. It's a great Jeep, it runs wonderfully, it just had an engine rebuild done about 2 years ago, and since then, it's had less than 5k on...

I'd guess cps. I'll look and see if I have my old one around here. It's no good, but if it makes your jeep run like mine used to, that would be the issue. =)

I used to fail smog with similar numbers. I eventually had it cold tested to pass it...but, I was able to bring the nox down a lot by just sealing up little holes in the exhaust...just replaced the exhaust and found a significant hole on the top of the downpipe...curious how it goes this time.

OEM Sensors x3 (if you can't get OEM, NAPA is your best alternative IMHO). I've also had an O2 sensor kill my wrangler while getting off an offramp. Turned out when I installed the header I routed the wire wrong and it melted while driving. While I highly doubt it's your issue, it is proof...

New CPS showed up and it's back running. Doesn't seem to be a vibe at any particular rpm either. Still think the flexplate is a little out of round, and I suspect when this cps reaches an older age, it's going to start giving me issue too. Next major tune up I'll probably get one from...

Well, Mike came by last night and double checked my work for me. He moved the dizzy one tooth back, but it still ran like crap. He agreed it was a timing issue, but it wasn't the distributor. New CPS showed up today, just installed it. Purrs like a kitten.

OK, quick recap... 94 Cherokee Country, 6 cyl, A/T Engine was rebuilt 30 over with a hotter cam (I believe) Engine ran well except for a harmonic vibration at 1750 rpm. Before I disassembled, it started and idled beautifully. One thing I knew was that the TC wasn't indexed and that I had...

I'm sure it's at top dead center, I've reset it like 10 times. I've checked the resistance in the new wires, they all are 0. I've swapped the O2 sensor with a spare unit I had, no difference. I'm getting pretty confident it's a bad flexplate. Gonna pull the tranny again next weekend and...

yeah, swapped the O2 sensor too. I'm seeing a lot of threads on people getting mis-matched plates. I made sure diameter/circumference, bolt pattern, number of teeth were all the same...but I didn't think to match up the holes on the band to make sure they were the same. I've seen a couple...

Well, I'm getting more concerned it might be the flexplate. Found another thread about a guy replacing the flexplate and had similar issues. One of the responses was "I think we heard here not too long ago that all the new flex plates at the stores were factory defective?" Should have bought...

I wouldn't be too concerned. I've towed a lot more weight than 300lbs, and that's all those carriers support. I'd say you're good to go. just get a fat guy to stand on your back bumper and that will be the weight of your bike.

video of engine running should be up at http://youtu.be/ttR0WeeWa64 in a little while. Audio isn't nearly as good as I had hoped though.

Yep, I read a bunch of your other posts on using brass studs and loktite 242. I'd like to do that soon. My big concern was the washers since they are concave/convex. My assumption is that's to displace the pressure over a larger radius to prevent cracking and fatigue since little flat washers...

Not sure if I mentioned but the flex plate is new, like brand new. ATP part number Z-339. Says it's for JEEP CHEROKEE 95-91 L6-4.0L Auto Trans Flexplate. I guess it could be a faulty part, but I've gotten parts from ATP before and never had an issue.