Search results

Speaking of checking cables, also check the engine block end of the negative battery cable. If it's coming lose or dirty, you could be getting a poor ground to your engine block, and not be able to supply enough current to run your starter.

With how cheap a used AW4 is, I would consider using a used transmission. http://www.car-part.com/ is a good source for finding parts, and if you're going to do the swap yourself you could end up not spending much at all. (125$ for the cheapest listed ones in my state)

I don't know about you, but there's no way I would pay 1200$ for something in that condition. Even if it's a '96, a crappy primer job, stained carpets, unknown (a million?) mileage, and the work it needs just doesn't seem worth it.

Funny, nobody has mentioned my favorite way of removing carbon yet. When I first got my '91 it had about 230k on it, and ran like crap due to a number of things, including carbon buildup. I tried using seafoam, but after a whole bottle it only marginally improved how the engine ran. After a bit...

Sits at around 210 except in traffic, where it will creep up to 230 before the electric fan kicks in and drops it back to 210. This is a 91XJ, 240k, original cooling system (except a couple hoses).

You didn't mention what year it was, but on mine you can turn the accessories on by turning the key towards you. I've accidentally gone past the off position to the accessory position before, and I had been driving it for a couple months before I noticed that there even was an accessory position...

Partsamerica.com (parent company of check/schuck's/kragen/csk/advance) has a 15% coupon code valid until 7/31. The code is MLBD. I used it to pick up a reman unit for about 70$ after tax last week. Edit: looks like the price on their cheap starter has gone up a bit this week, but it's still...

Sure, but once you expend all that time and energy producing hydrogen and then compressing it, you might as well have built an electric car and driven twice the distance. Oh, wait, but electric cars have batteries that have to be replaced every few years and have crappy range.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAvalveCover/ValveCover.htm This article has some part #'s...

Check both ends of your negative battery cable and make sure they're tight.

That's what had me fooled. The battery grounds into the body and the engine block, with the engine block ground being a much larger wire. Many of the accessories ground out to the body, or don't draw a whole lot of power. However, the starter draws a huge amount of power when it's running...

Check your grounds (specifically where the negative battery cable connects to the engine block). I had a similar problem on my '91 XJ, and it turns out the nut had worked it's way loose over the last couple hundred thousand miles. After cleaning up the grounds and tightening the nut, it's...

I don't know about you, but I regularly hit 100 miles by the time my gas gauge hits the 3/4 mark. Funny though, by the time I hit empty I've only done 300 miles or so (however, when I hit empty I often have almost 5 gallons left in the tank). Fuel gauges suck. Give it more time, and do some real...

Honestly, I find the electric hybrid tech to be fairly unexciting (for all the reasons stated earlier in this thread). However, I find the steam and hydraulic hybrid technologies that have been talked about for the last couple years alot more exciting. The steam hybrid technology is able to turn...

Cap, rotor, and plug wires are some of the easiest things to replace. Hell, replacing my wiper blades took more effort! Take the new cap, and swap the wires over from the old one so that they're in the same sequence, using the screws as a guide. It's just two screws to pull the cap (one on each...

I've had luck with MMO on a Toyota. It only took a little bit to stop it from ticking (it was faint, had just started recently), and I just kept putting a little in whenever I heard it starting to tick. After a few oil changes the ticking had stopped.

Pulled mine off (a '91) without incident using a torx screwdriver a few days ago.

Hmm...might have to get me one of these once the other car is gone.

Hope you didn't do what I did. It turns out turning the dimmer switch (knob on the headlight control) until it clicks causes the interior lights to stay on. I, of course, had no idea that this was a feature or that I had rotated the knob far enough. Took me about 10 minutes to figure it out.

Alright, guess I'll start looking for an inexpensive source for good oil. That and a new exhaust manifold. Spotted a good sized crack while I was out there, and is probably the reason why I'm getting 16-17mpg. At least the intake manifold should be easier to take off than it was on my Cressida.