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Just thought of another tip, I'm sure it's been mentioned elswhere on this board before. Try to get the star bolts out first before they get loaded up with the weight of the engine/tranny. I know it's tempting to unbolt the easy to reach lower bolts first, but if anything should happen to shift...

Did you try unbolting (and supporting on a jack!) the tranny crossmember so you can tip the back of the engine down a little? We did it that way at the u-pull-it when I was shopping for my rebuilder. I was actually able to get my hand up there and put the socket on the star bolt, then guide the...

A couple of years ago I had the same scenerio on my '88 (@115k) a short time after I brought it. With the suggestions of a lot of people trying to help me, I replaced the rod bearings, oil pump, balancer & seal, and rear seal, all in-car. My mistake was not checking the main bearings while I was...

Did you try bypassing the fuel pump resister on the driver side fender? Also, I never tried it myself, but I wonder if you could test the pump by unplugging the wire at the resister and run a jumper direct to the battery.

This is what you are talking about: http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/9f/f2/small/0900c152800a9ff2.jpg I noticed that first time I changed my brakes too. I've always wondered about that design myself...On my Camaro the pad covers at least...

Could also be contacts in your ignition switch are worn. I had similar symptoms before I replaced my switch. Sometimes the accessories wouldn't work on the first start up. I'd have to shut it off and restart, then the radio etc would work. Try turning the key to run without starting, turn on...

I lucked out at the yard and found an XJ with the keys still in it. I took both door locks but didn't have time for the hatch lock. So now I have a different key for the hatch and doors, no biggie. But anyway, they are not that hard to swap out. You can order a new set here...

Sometimes you can feel it in the temp control if the door dosen't close all the way in one direction or the other. Mine always felt soft going to the red side, but had a solid thunk when I slid it to the blue. Under the passenger side dash is the cable coming from the control. On it was a spring...

You know what, you just reminded me, I also did the rear mail seal while I was in there, and that bearing looked fine. That's probably why I didn't check the rest of them back then...

Sounds exactly like what I had, and did two years ago. Did rod bearing and a new oil pump to see if I could keep her going until I had time to build up another motor, still had the same noise. Well, fast forward to now, the rebuild has been in for a year and a half, and I just got around to...

Four years ago when we brought our '88 Laredo, the brakes were terrible. Both adjusters were stuck. On the workbench I put a little heat to them just to get them to unscrew. Cleaned up the threads with a fine wire wheel, flushed out with brake cleaner, wiped on some high temp lube, and good as...

Been a while, I honestly don't remember. Here's a pic of a new set, I think they are directional (each is one side only). http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/427.html.

That's probably for the mechanism that locks your shifter (automatic?).

That happened to a car I brought from a somewhat shadey used car dealer several years ago. Went to shut the car off when I got home, and the key fell out. Without thinking, I shut off the ignition, then I realised I could turn it back on without the key! Went right out and picked up a new...

That line got me to thinking, are you sure ONLY #5 is not firing? Reason I ask is number 2 plug shares the same CPS timing spot on the flywheel. If there is any damage to the flywheel on that position it's possible your #2 is not firing properly as well. The other two positions are for plugs 1+6...

Hey Blaine, did you get a chance to look for any cracks in the frame around your steering box bolts? That's one of those things the insurance guy probably won't (or don't want to) see when they do an estimate. I had a similar hit on my '88 and shortly thereafter I started getting the snapping...

I don't think that is going to show you if the CTS is ok or not. If possible, get an ohm reading off a new one and compare that to the reading on the engine part (cold of course). I had one go bad on an Aerostar and it was reading completely open, whereas the new part had a readable resistance...

That was the interesting part. I never would have thought they could mill down the saddles and actually reposition the centerline of the crank. I guess by doing that, you really don't need that much bigger of an oversize bearing, compared to just cleaning up the holes in their original location...

Just that quick I found the repair procedure online for anyone who wants to check it out: http://chevyhighperformance.automotive.com/10317/0708ch-block-repair-basics/index.html While it's amazing how they can restore what would normally be junk to most people, it also looks very time consuming...