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well i did some more maintaince on it last night. i put in a new fuel filter. and well i noticed that when i unclamped it. there really wasn't much pressure in the line. i put the new one in and started it up. checked for leaks. and one of my clamps was leaking a bit. i noticed it seemed...

8mud thanks for all the help and suggestions. i'm hoping it was a loose connection at the ecu. after unplugging it last night and making sure all the wires where in nice and snug. i put it back in and probably put about 60miles on it today without a hitch. knock on wood.

i wish i had a pressure gauge. cuz like i said earlier. any fuel injected vehicle i've pressed the schrader valve on it squirts fuel pretty good. when i did it to mine when its acting up i just get a little pshh and thats it. no more pressure.

well the plot thickens. went out to it again. checked spark. and yep its sparking. checked the new plugs i put in. the showed signs of fuel. so i got fuel. plus i could smell it. so i got spark, i got fuel. why is it firing then shutting down right away? out of desperation. i start...

well today i got some parts. picked up a new cps and plugs. changed the plugs and the CPS (what a PITA). go turn the key. nothing changed. it starts for a second and dies. any other ideas guy's before i drop the tank and replace the fuel pump. oh also tryed jumpering the fuel pump...

i'm not convinced its a CPS issue just yet. cuz i actually tried that as part of the diagnosing. i unplugged the cps connector to see if the "no start" condition would change. and it did. instead of getting a little studder then shutting down. it would just crank and crank. no sputter at...

well this is a very intermittent problem. its a 88 xj 4.0 aw4 np231. well this has happend 2 times this past week. i'll be driving down the road. then the truck just dies on me. i'll try to restart. and all i get is a little sputter out of it and it won't stay running. the first time i got...

thats what i was thinking of doing based on other peoples experiences as well. I realize its a prop vavle problem. I've just never torn one down before. im interested in hearing how its done.

is there a diagram i can view to see what exactly i gotta remove and do? i know where the prop valve is and what it looks like. just havne't torn it down before.

just a update. i finally got around to flipping the calipers over. so they're the right side up. bled them out. now the pedal is back to 100% normal. and the brakes are very sensitive now. doesn't take much pedal pressure to stop in a hurry. i do notice though that the rears seem to be...

exactly what i'm gonna do man. i haven't touched the prop valve yet. i was just under it this morning cuz last night i had one of those moments when your laying in bed thinking about jeeps. and well it hit me that i wasn't paying attention to the bleeder position on the calipers. sure enuff...

well think i found partially what my problem is. turns out i may have overlooked which way the calipers go on. i got them upside down with the bleeders on the bottom.

nobody thinks that i need to swap to the newer style master cyl? as well what about removing the oring in the prop valve like i've beenr reading? or are those just 2 things to help better the braking performance? not necassarily meant to correct the need for a air free system.

well i'm not sure spongy is the correct term to describe it. its more like the pedal doesn't do anything until its almost at the floor. with the jeep off i can pump the pedal and it builds pressure. but as soon as its on it just goes back to normal and doesn't activate the brakes till its near...

also been reading that taking the oring out of the stock prop valve should fix it as well. can someone that has done the crownvic discs let me know asap.

Ok well the discs are on brakes are all bled. but my pedal is still so spongy it doesn't even feel safe to drive. its a 88xj 4.0 aw4. now do i need to upgrade the mastercyl? or put in a different prop valve?

i'd do it right and get new/better rear leaf packs man. i've had blocks and can't stand them. they twisted up my oem packs pretty good. this way you get the same lift you need out back without having to lenghten shocks or add sye's.

all this master and slave BS happend on my peugoet equip't 88. after replacing the master and bleeding the shit out of it. still wasn't disengaging. suspected slave. which was internal. so at that point i rounded up a parts jeep. and swapped in a aw4. best move i've ever made.

sorry i pitched it into the scrap heap. picked up a proper bar off a jeep classified forum.

i did the exact same thing for my crown vic discs on the rear 44 i got as well. i didn't bother welding the old holes closed. that rubicon retainer is thick and quite rigid as is.