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I had a similar problem with my 88. The cure was replacing a corroded connector in the B+ relay socket. Relay is #2 in the group on right, above front wheel. Relays are all the same so they can be exchanged to test.

Adjusters are side specific!!!!!!!! The adjuster lever is outside of the star wheel. Downward movement (on outside) will cause adjuster to extend. Check that the adjuster lever is good, not rounded off. If it is suspect replace it. Any parts house can get them, if not leave and NEVER go back. I...

On the outside of the window, outboard of the plastic washer is the nut, not a normal nut. This nut is about 1 1/2" dia (shaped like a flat fender washer) with two holes in it. To remove this nut you will need a spanner type wrench, something with two pins to engage the holes. It wnt be easy or...

I am presntly trying to do this conversion (explorer - D30). So far I have found I will need rotors from a early 90's 4x4 Ranger (Explorer rotors 10.9 dia), manual hub locks, nut kit (tis Explorer had auto hubs). Late YJ inner axles (?) as Ford used 297 u-jounts, my XJ is an 88 with 260...

Replaced, & adjusted TPS. same problem. Replaced IAC motor, problem solved. Thanks for the help

I have a stock 88 XJ, auto, 242. I know when first started Idle goes high (1500-2000) for a few seconds. my problem is occasionally Idle when started goes to 3000 and won't drop. restarting sometimes cures. Temp does not have an effect, happens hot or cold. Today while idleing, idle speed varied...

You have two choices: learn to do it yourself or pay some one. A shhop can charge what ever they want! In California they must give an estimite before work starts, call for aproval if price goes up or down (check with the BAR). Ultimatly the decision is yours.

Check ALL electrical connections and grounds for corrosion, and dirt. Check Alternator output, voltage and current. Check Fuel Pump current draw, as the pump gets older the rollers and bushings wear. Low engine speed combinded with a weak alternator and old fuel pump will cause wierd stalling...

Try the ground at the Iggnition module. The weather-pack terminals are availible from NAPA. My 88 would run fine until you opened the door. Replaced the ground wire, problem gone.

Ford only used the 297/760 u-jont on Ranger/BII/Explorer, axles were D28 or D35 independent (twin I-Beam). Later (95+ ?) used a-arms with a unit bearing. Some CJ's with D30 have the the same spindle diameter as ford (were the bearing rides). May be using CJ spindles with ford hubs could work?

I to am interested in the idea. I dont need ultimate strength, just cheep. I started to look nto this last spring, then droped the ball. From what I have discovered, Rangers, & Bronco II used d28 or d35, Explorer d35. auto or manual hubs. there are 2 different spline counts 21 & 27 for stub...

Try changing the oil and add friction modifier.

Bosch, Mopar, or universal doesn't matter. Quality built, waranty, fit, conectors, Heated or not IS IMPORTATANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Using an AC voltmeter check for a signal at computer from crank sensor. you might also check true fuel presure with a gauge. A rare problem but check wiring behind left front turn signal, fuel pump feed wire (org/blk) splits and runs forward thru radiator suport (behind turn signal) and across...

87-aprox 92 auto 21 spline, manual some 21 some 23, after 92 all 23 spline.

Find out why the Check Engine light is on NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!. When the light come on there IS something wrong, fix it.

My 88 had a similar problem, it was the ground connection at the ignition module. START with the obvious. The simple things will bite you every time. Charge voltage with a good battery should be around 14 volts at the battery.

The Input shaft/gear are NOT interchange able between 207 and 231

Has any one replaced a 242 transfercase with a 207? I have 2 207's 21&23 spline, front and rear drive shafts, etc. I want the part time feature for my 88 xj. I'm cheap and not very abusive to this so the 207 should hold up.