Search results

The MetalCloak kit looks great!! And if price were no object that's probably how I would go. However price is always an object so... I think there are some things you could delete from their kit and replace with cheaper alternatives and still maintain the ride/handling.

The Sherman fronts can be had for $98 @ Rockauto and they have a different brand rear for $123. I do like the looks of that complete front you found though... Edit: Just looked at the rear one you found; it is more complete than the one @ Rockauto, They have just the cargo area and doesn't...

Put the passenger side up on ramps today and took the wheel and a brush to the underneath. Cleaned up all the loose rust I could see around the holes as well as where ever I could see on the floor pan which wasn't much. A little bubble rust here and there along the pinch seam; might be...

Thanks for the info. Right now I'm only going to do a patch. One large hole on the flat near where the transmission tunnel comes down; it's about 3x6 inches. Right above where the exhaust runs underneath. Then around the plug it is starting; couple small holes. My concern with the plug was...

Have a 94 with a hole in the passenger floor under the seat and some more general rust in other areas. I am considering my options as far as patching and wondered if someone could confirm what the circle with an 'x' in it to the right of the grinder wheel is? Not my floor, just a picture I...

I saw this when you originally posted it the other day and agreed with everything that was said. Now having seen the rear my response is: Those doors are 'tight', very nice. If I ever actually get around to going with tube doors these will be my model. The rear is the one that makes them so...

You need to verify fuel and spark separately. Here is a good place to start. If I remember it is written with a Renix system in mind, but most of it applies. I just (or so it appears) finished battling starting issue and while my problem was the PCM I wouldn't be so fast to blame yours...

Reminds me of this place: Wagonmasters

This might be the best explanation as OEM- and Modified-Tech are really the only places I spend much time.

So I haven't been a 'contributing' member here but I've frequented the site since 2003 according to my join date. What I've noticed over the years is that the traffic on the site has steadily decreased over the years and drastically in the last couple. I know that the end of production of the...

This is kind of a continuation from this old thread. What I've found is that when it is warm my Jeep starts perfectly normally; and I mean warm outside or having been run for a while so everything is warm in the engine bay. This made my problem very difficult to diagnose over the summer as it...

Kind of off topic, but didn't want to start a new thread. With the shifter in the 1-2 position, while slowing to a stop, my Jeep used to downshift to first at about 25mph if I remember correctly. Now it seems to be inconsistent on when it shifts and sometimes doesn't shift at all, even to the...

I assume the dealer is not selling OEM/NOS because Chrystler Corp isn't using this sensor in a factory anymore. Sure they can get a part made to the same specs, but it may not even be made by the original manufacturer. Any specific experience with getting a CKP from a dealer and getting one...

So I pulled my CKP today and am starting my search for a replacement part. I called NAPA, a local parts store, and the dealer last week and got prices anywhere from $70-110. I'm looking at eBay and Google products and seeing prices in the $17-32 range. What should I be concerned about with...

The Geolander AT-S is a good tire. I've got a set on my Avalanche that is the wife's DD and we got almost 3 years out of them. (Didn't like them as much as the older AT-S II that I still have on my 94 XJ from about 8-9 years ago but it doesn't see nearly as much use.) Just put a set of Kuhmo...

If that's what the customer wanted then more power to them. I wouldn't do it with white but I plan on doing my roof/gutters/rockers in some sort of roll-on liner. My 94 sport is green too.

Good starting point: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101119 If you're getting nothing from the starter I'd check out your neutral safety switch. Have you tried jumping power directly to the starter? If this is the problem it is an easy fix as long as you can get the switch off the...

So I know I said I was going to power the pump directly but I haven't had the time to check that out. What I have found is that if I leave the key in the on position for about a minute the pump will run with the clicking sound and then will run normal if I turn the key off and then on again...

Thanks for the help guys. I swapped relays and got the same results. I guess I need to jump power straight to the pump to see how it reacts then. If it runs good then I need to track down my power leak and if it runs the same then I guess it is time for a new pump. Sound right? Any other...

So a couple weeks ago my Cherokee (94/4.0/AW4) wouldn't start. It was very cold and the fuel that was in the tank was several months old so I chalked it up to condensation. I did think to check for fuel pressure and I had none. Since then I've gotten it to start by fiddling with the key but...