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at this point i'd take the rms leaking a small pool everyday. keeping that rear part of the gasket where it comes down into the pan in a correct orientation seems impossible and you cant see it so thats why i bolted it up thinking it was good.

it should be the lip is towards the front. i have a 2000 4.0 btw. sorry for not putting that down. i got the rms with the wings originally and after pulling the main cap i found out i have the one with out wings completely round. so thats why i put the bead of gasket maker i got from jeep for...

I was installing a new pan gasket and rms and lightly put a very tiny scratch in the lower main cap where the rms seal sits. I also barely and I mean barely nicked the rms seal where it sits in the lower main cap. I now have a constant stream of oil coming out of the back when running. I put...

anything coming out of the pumpkin would be pretty apparent i would think. its a pretty unique sound.

I ordered the kit from a retailer on here that had no idea what he was selling. I got balljoints from him and they were spicers and cheap. Problem with all these drop ship companies is you get great prices on certain items but then if you have to send stuff back and then wait an extra week...

If fluid came out the rear you would need to replace your rear seal on the trans. I had no fluid come out. Case looks good but unless it utterly fails I think the parts are gonna be shiny and new looking regardless. I'm venturing a guess on your front output bearing but any one of those could...

BTW. JB Conversions kit had everything in it and I made sure to tell them I had the sye installed and they sent the correct rear output bearing for it. It took a little longer to ship it from them for some reason but they were really helpful in making sure I got the kit I needed and like I...

Well I finally got mine back together. I ordered the master rebuild from Yukon Gear and it had half the parts in it that I needed. So a couple weeks later finally the JB Conversions kit came. I would have had it rebuilt in a couple hours easy but didnt realize how much the shafts move when...

So you got it running w/o overheating and then modified it. Why didn't you just leave it alone. You say stock is marginal but it sure seemed to finally run w/o overheating once you took it to someone who knows what there doing. I bet you have a reverse rotation pump in there and don't even...

I need to get another jeep to beat on. If I break mine anymore the wife is gonna kill me. Tom

We used to go to the gravel pits down on Roundbottom and Mt. Carmel but Evans took it over and leveled it. Havent gotten out much because its my daily driver. Used to have a j10 and a j20. beat them senseless and the frames rotted.

Geez that thing is clean. How the heck you keep the mud off it? Cooling not a problem I suppose. I'm right up the road. Turn right at Skyline Chili and I'm a couple houses up. Where you wheeling around here?

Thanks Robert. what yr/color you rolling around in? im in a 2000 white xj with 4" lift and factory wheels. I'm over near amelia. I'm gonna just order 6 from zmjeeps. mine are toast from beating them out. i've always lubed liberally with anti sieze but i got this hp30 from a 19 yr old and...

sweet. thanks all.

i think i must have mushroomed the threads getting my old bolts out of the hubs. that or the thread pitch is different between 96 and 00 hubs. im trying to install 96 bolts in a 00 hub. these are the 3 bolts per side that screw thru the back of the knuckle and into the hub. could i replace...

just picked up a hp30. rusted to bejeezuz. hoping that will fix my issues w/o rotating c's. still looking for some help if anyone is even on this site anymore.

just remeasured on level ground. boy that makes a difference. i have a lift of 3.75 front and 4.25 rear.

well i reset my angles. i have no idea what i'm doing apparently. i measured my lift from the centerline of the hubs to the bottom of the wheel arch and have 4.25" lift in the front from my ome zj coils that have around 60k miles on them. there rusty as heck but i guess they havent sagged at...

fixed it. figured i would post it up for others. in order to correctly orient the mainshaft the front and rear yokes must be tightened down. tightening those nuts orient the mainshaft as much as 1/4" so if you have my problems, tighten those nuts down.

another question and i finally figured out what is keeping me from turning free is looking down at the case while assembling and i'm fairly sure i'm in nuetral the top of the mode sleeve is at the exact height of the bottom of drive gear. so i get binding. in other gears i get clashing. the...