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Hmmm, interesting. Sorry, I thought it was always supposed to be +-3%. Would an out-of-whack fuel trim cause the Jeep to run warm on hills? I just rebuilt the whole cooling system with OEM parts and milled the head. She stays under 210 most of the time but climbed up to maybe 220 on a few hills...

Hi All, I used BlueDrive to log fuel trim, O2 sensor voltage, and temps. See link below for the excel spreadsheet (I promise it's not a virus). From what I've read, I'm thinking my fuel trims are out of whack but hoping for confirmation and suggestions! Thanks...

To close the book on this, I ended up torquing all suspension bolts down. Looks like the two bolts on the underside of the track bar bracket were a bit loose (as an aside, are both of those 'nuts' the bolts thread into supposed to be welded in? The one towards the front of the car spun so I got...

I don't know if it matters but my steering wheel was crooked with respect to the tires. Seems that they've straightened things out now. Does that affect you interpretation of the report?

Thanks Rob... That's annoying. See link for report: https://imgur.com/a/9Sj4IMT

Lol bummer. See below: Before L(Camber)=0.7 R(Camber)=-2.2 L(Caster)=5 R(Caster)=5 L(Toe)=0.05 R(Toe)=-0.2 Total Toe = -0.16 Steer Ahead = 0.13 After L(Camber)=0.8 R(Camber)=-2.2 L(Caster)=5 R(Caster)=5 L(Toe)=-0.06 R(Toe)=-0.08 Total Toe = -0.14 Steer Ahead = 0.01

Holy shit you guys, I cannot figure out how to upload this scan of the alignment report... Clicking on the Insert Image button just asks for a URL? How do I just upload the image?!

I've got a 97 with a 4.5 inch lift. Lift and all steering links are pretty new, maybe been on half a dozen trips with them. The other day I got death wobble (DW) getting on the freeway, which has never happened. Read on here that out-of-balance tires and toe angles would be the first place to...

Just to close the book on this, I did end up getting the head milled and replacing the head gasket. While I was in there I noticed that the T-stat was damaged (I guess I must have squished it when I redid the water pump?) and was opening very little. The machine shop said the head was def warped...

Bit of an update: I went for some low hanging fruit by disconnecting the battery for a night, unscrewed the t-sensor a bit to get it further away from the housing, and went to replace the muffler, since I thought that's where the rattling was coming from. Come to find out, the rattling was...

Is there anyway to test? I've heard of dropping them in boiling water but I wouldn't want to overheat it and get it stuck open permanently.

That makes sense. I also figured once I shut off the motor the coolant isn't being circulated or cooled either, so makes sense that the temp would keep climbing a bit until things cool down.

Yep, new radiator is a Spectra. You might be on to something with the heater core. If I bypass the heater core and the overheating goes away, I suppose that would be one way to diagnose, right? Are there any other ways you know of? I should have mentioned that when it overheated I pulled over...

To be clear, it boiled over when I had the burping funnel attached and had shut it off after burping it for 45 mins. During this burping event, it ran at 225. I have not replaced the rad cap and taken it for a spin since, because if it ran hot at idle with the hood open I anticipate it'll run...

I did replace the t-sensor. Going by the dash gauge and my BlueDriver OBD2 tool. When I replaced the rad cap, water pump, and t-stat it ran at 210 while burping and on surface streets but ran hot (220 - 230) on highway, but didn't overheat. When I changed the t-sensor and radiator and added...

My method's similar to yours, but I remove the t-sensor and fill the radiator until I see it at the lip of the threads. My nose was pointed up hill. Is it normal for the coolant to boil over when I shut off the Jeep after burping?

Is the cooling capacity of the water greatly affected by the ratio for the concentrate? I didn't measure super carefully, but it may have a bit more concentrate than water. It's definitely not leaking coolant. If it's losing coolant internally it's not obvious. No signs of it in the motor oil...

I did re-gear to 4.56. No codes on the scanner. I haven't run any of those tests but will report back when I complete them.

What do you mean by "sized that close"? Could a clogged heater core really cause running hot?

Forgot to mention I replaced the radiator cap as well.