Recent content by Zapa89

Awesome indeed. As I told you in the YT comments, your fabrication skills have come a loooooong way :D

Is your belt well tensioned? Maybe the alternator is not rotating as it should at low rpms.

If I recall correctly, the gauge could be using the 19v position to indicate a failure of some kind, or be faulty. Mine was just pushing too much voltage due to a broken regulator, but it didn't go all the way to 19v and the reading at the battery was consistent with the gauge.

I installed the Crown alternator this afternoon. Everything is back to normal, although it took some convincing to get it in :) 169€ ($190) for the alternator and I had it here in 24h. Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

If I change it I might rebuild the old one indeed. I've sourced the Crown alternator in-country, so I'd have it in 24h. Final price 179€ shipped. I might send an email today to Mike and Franks just in case they can price-match with a Delco unit.

Back again. I tried today to hook an extra ground for my current alternator and it didn't solve the problem. I'm simply going to get a new one and get it done. 8Mud, I have sourced a Crown alternator that I can find here in Spain for about 185€. Would you get that or go for a Bosch instead? I...

From what I know "I" is just an exciter. The other connected cable is L, which goes to a lamp indicator. If it has to adjust anything it has to be wired internally to be able to read it. I read that too. A reading of 18v was an indicator of a failure. However the reading at the battery is also...

Thanks 8Mud. I agree that a full rebuild is the way to go once decided to open the alternator. I'll check what those companies have to offer. Tim, I'm pretty sure that Positive cables and terminals are good up top, but I haven't checked yet the connections from the alternator itself. The...

I drove a 30min roundtrip and I didn't see that the voltmeter was in the red zone, so apparently I cooked my original battery because the next morning it read 2.2v in my multimeter. It was just a 50Ah 440CCA battery, so it's not a great loss, and I bought a new -proper- Bosch 74Ah 680CCA one...

Residual water itself can cause it. If it goes away after braking gently it's just the extra grip of the wet surfaces. It happens in mine frequently during rainy days.

I don't really need the extra expense, and the closed system is as good as any ;)

The cap is fine. (.............) They broke the radiator at the lower hose's tube when taking it off, so I'm getting a new one instead.

I finally managed to get the level normally stable. I filled the tank up to 2/3 or so and started the engine with the tank's cap open and heat on full blast. When it reached temperature the level fluctuated, sometimes up, sometimes down, gurgling coolant out sometimes (due to huge bubbles...

It's the one that can be guessed in the shadows, going down. Same placement as in any other tank.

I don't think my tank is the original one, but it doesn't appear to be cracked. The cap is certainly keeping seal.