Recent content by XJlimitedx99

That does look awfully high when you draw it in. Nice and flat though. The 1-ton TRE's use a 7/8"-18 thread. This is the kit that I bought with high angle TRE's for the drag link and offset TRE's for the tie rod. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1304.html

Any reason you couldn't go OTK with the drag link end on the Teraflex knuckle? I'm assuming the knuckle is probably tapered bottom-up. Could you drill it and use an insert to flip to a top-down taper and run the TRE up top for super flat steering? Not that its necessary, but if you're going this...

This statement makes this decision less straight forward. What really matters here is your use case. How do you intend to drive the rig? V8 + locked diff + 35's + party pedal = ka-boom! For the most part, the rear axle will take it. 8.8's are good, even the 97+ factory 29 spline 8.25's are...

WJ hubs have a 5x5 bolt pattern. They would probably work if you wanted to deal with that. What do you mean "running in to the issue of different studs"? Look into the dual diaphragm booster swap after your WJ swap is complete.

check out this calculator to play with gear ratios, RPM, and speed: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Looks like you're not too far off based on what you're saying. At 68 mph, you should be running 2521 rpm in OD with a tire rolling radius of 31". I know you said 33's, but this calculation...

I think most people that do the WJ knuckle swap use WJ rotors and drill the XJ bolt pattern into the WJ rotors. I have seen people say the Explorer rotors can work too. Quick Google search shows the Sport Trac has 1/2" lug studs just like the XJ's. You sure you have the correct rotors? I'd...

You got me there. That sounds like a huge pain. What a stupid situation to be stuck in.

Unless you're really good with a stick welder, you're going to struggle hard with body work using that process. Definitely use the 1/16" rod. I've always used just MIG on my Jeep. 0.023" wire for sheet metal. With real thin stuff, I find the best technique is to strike the arc just to the side...

What're his driving habits like? 10-12 sounds reasonable for moderate/heavy accelerations and running 75+ mph on the highway. If he's driving with a real light foot (slow accelerations) and sticking to ~65 mph on the highway and still getting 10-12, I would think there is something wrong with...

I have IRO springs and tend to carry a large payload, although maybe not quite as much as you describe. I found the IRO springs are very soft. Really good for flex and wheeling, but they don't take the weight well. I contacted IRO with some questions, and they recommended I get the add-a-leaf...

I've never seen someone do it, but I've always wished the glass raised on XJ's. I used to have a ZJ with the pop-up glass window, and I remember using that all the time.

I think I read once that the unibody rails are made from a medium carbon alloy, something like a 1035 steel. You gotta figure if that one spot is that bad, the rest of it isn't far behind. I remember seeing the framed XJ awhile back and not understanding it at the time. Now I get it. The...

Shackle angle looks good. The shackle's job is to allow the leaf spring to extend/retract as it flattens/droops. As the shackle swings backward during suspension compression, the leverage of the system changes such that the effective spring rate decreases. From a vehicle dynamics standpoint, a...

That depends on the current shackle angle. If your shackle is currently vertical, longer shackles will have almost no effect on the effective spring rate. The farther forward your shackle is leaning (as it sits now), the greater the change will be with the longer shackles. If, for example...

No you won’t hurt anything. 3.75” is pretty standard. Many aftermarket wheels have that backspacing. With that said, it’s not ideal. Your scrub radius will be much higher which will negatively affect your power steering at low speeds and will put more stress on your wheel bearings. You might...