Recent content by xcm

It’s not your place to judge how someone installed a lightbar on their own jeep. That is 100% a “correct installation”, albeit not perfect. If I use self tappers to install a light bar on my beaters hood, and you later buy that beater, who are you to critisize my methods? Especially if you can’t...

Edit fix

Someone left the pinion nut loose, and it opened up, losing preload on the bearings and allowing the pinion to move. This is why every diff I do, gets a BRAND NEW stover but, and a borderline amount of red loctite (not the no-name stuff the gear companies ship with the install kits). Everyone...

All that’s left to do is make sure you tighten the lower control arm bolts at ride height. As with all memory rubber bushings.

Not ideal, but it’ll be ok most likely. Could you bend the support tab up, and add an adel clamp on the soft line along the frame? Should eat up some of that slack?

There’s no doubt running a gear at 13, after being setup and broken in at like 7-10 will cause a noise… I’d be more concerned about lug nut thread engagement. Most disc swaps call for longer wheel studs, luckily your running steel wheels, but you should still get longer ones.

Experienced gear guys can’t read the drive side of a used gear set… it’s too worn in! Your wasting your time and chasing your tail. If I was doing what you just finished doing, I would first thing take an existing backlash measurement… then make sure you set it back it was broken in… Also...

Gas is over $5/gal, inflation is thru the roof, and the economy is in the shitter, and it’s not looking good… I’d go with an AT. In fact I just did… Then again, it’s an opinion based question. Only you know what you really want.

Oem packaging. Why waste money on fancy packaging and holograms to impress the mechanics installing it.

The two gentlemen above nailed it. Oem squeeze out. I’ve had these pseudo o rings look almost like a perfect o ring… it’s amazing.

100%. I’d recommend Accutune any day of the week!

I’m with RCP on this one. Terrible ROI for the anti rock. Put it on after you have dialed everything else. Truth be told, you have work to do to be fast, you can’t just put on a $600 sway bar and be ready to overall Baja races… that’s straight up sucker logic!

Are your bump stops dialed in for the suspension? By that I mean fit to the ammount of lift and tire situation? #1 place to start. You don’t need hydraulic bump stops, they just have to hit on time

JK d44 parts are way better than the shit Dana put out in the 60-70’s… think 3/8” ring gear bolts versus 1/2”. And JK d44 parts are just as, if not, more available. What the hell is your point? Other than being that “aCTsHuaLly!” Guy?

Guides don’t keep axle tube debris from being pushed into your seals when you drag the splines thru 2 feet of grime. But you do you, gentlemen.