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X2...........
I won't buy mobil products, You can plainly see by checking into some VOA's and UOA's that there are many oils with the same or similar add pak as any mobil oil for HALF the price, that maintane there TBN for as long or longer.
I run AMSOIL everything EXCEPT motor oil...for that...
I have a VOA of DELVAC 5-40 here and it has a zinc level of 1153 and phosphorus @ 1059.......
IIRC, Rotella was 1059 and 1200... I see no reason for ANY kind of additives to oil.
being that it is 0-40 it will not have a limit of Z or P only a min of 800 IIRC.
I have this as well, and I've been convinced it's heat soak....
I have a new header to put on, will it help if I coat or paint the header (NOT WRAP) ??
Will this actually reduce "under hood temps" and lessen my hot soak stumble ??
short answer; it will work fine.
The only "real" reason to run a "full" synthetic is for better flow rates at cold startup, it's ability to hold a cst rating for longer at high temp and longer oil change intervals.
Full syn will expose weak spots in seals by defualt, thats becuase it's...
FWIW;
This happened to me in my WJ last summer along with some other things....but my issue was a shity batt. terminal, but it looked brand new with no corrosion...... replaced the batt. terminal and all is well.
as stated above, I would check the plugs for the cluster first.
The triple T holds a CAT ECF-3, ECF-2, API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS rating that would serve your ZDDP and detergent needs for sure.....
I'm not one for additives but maybe a mixture of this with the good old (worthless) oill additive LUCAS would serve your purpose ???
By worthless I mean it does nothing...
There's no reason to EVER add anything to oil !
If you feel the need to do so than you need the correct oil.
I run Rotella T5 10-30 in all my 4.0's mostly.....more than enough ZDDP for our flat tappet style engines, I have no need for 15-40 as I don't live in 100 degree climates or have oil...
Why not just plain old Rotella 3T in 15/40............ I'm pretty sure it still holds a CJ-4 rating
It's a very stout oil with a VOS that reads like this.....
Virgin Sample
42 - Molybdenum
10 - Boron
1083 - Magnesium
752 - Calcium
1044 - Phosphorous
1078 - Zinc
15.7 - Visc @ 100C...
you are correct on my mistype.........I type too fast on breaks @ work
amperage is the rate THAT electricity flows....
as far as BS on hi or lo voltage ????? thats not correct.
You called that statement BS but then talked around it writing it off as a meter difference,
Or maybe I...
^^^ yeah you deff. need draw tests to diagnose a draw issue....
Remeber; voltage does not really mean much (sometimes when dealing with higher capacitance circuits),
voltage - is just electricity's ability to "flow"
Current (amps or draw) - is the amount of electricity "being consumed".
If...
check codes........
key-on, off, on, off on and stay on and count number of times the CEL flashes.
I had some similar issue's, a hesitation of sorts and it was a faulty o2 sensor.
I meant MMO in the gas 4oz per 10gal,
thers nothing in MMO that does not not dilute (or disolve) your oil add pak The boron and Phos. are anti wear additives but with no viscosity.
MMO consists of....
(Copied from another forum that I frequent)
70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
Serves...