Recent content by Ty2003K

I am sure it will be out someday but I would not expect to see it within the next year for all the people looking at a locker purchase. With that said I have always had good luck with both Spartan and Lockright.

There is not a Grizzly for the 8.25.

The ARB CKMA12 is actually under rated by ARB, it puts out more air then they claim. Now the MV-50 is the opposite and put it on a flow gauge and it puts out about 2/3 or even lower then they claim. Like you said it also might not get to 100 psi. With that if you can get the MV-50 to put...

I agree with 2extreme above. Keep what you have for the moment. If you have the urge to upgrade that bad I would say ARB or spool. If you break what you have now then you have an excuse to upgrade to the 29 spline. I will bet money it won't be the Lockright that fails. Out of my...

I believe ARB might have used steel in old versions but all newer ARBs use soft copper tubing. They are not brass as the first post states. I would not reccomend Brass as a replacement as it becomes very brittle after soldering and is very stiff. If you can get the broken portion out clean...

I run the Rock Krawler upper joint with a custom built 3 link set up. No issues to date.

Sounds like pretty standard gear noise. I would double check the install like others have said but the F8.8 is a noisy rear end. Moist of the OEM Ford gears have some sort of gear noise. High ratio aftermarkets like the 4.88 are usually worse.

The ARB has a built in pressure relief at 150 PSI. Disable that and it will go much higher. As far as the duty cycle goes it will pump for much longer then that. I have ran mine for well over an hour straight. Again for 250 the best pump you can buy. I have used almost everything else in...

If going 12 volt, ARB compressors are the best 12 VDC compressors on the market. The CKMA12 is a great option for just over 200. They just released a new compressor within the last few months the CKMTA12. 100% duty cycle and over 6 CFM! That would be my choice if I was in the market hands...

Yes something is wrong. Pop the cover and take a measurement of the gap between the two center drivers at the very least. Make sure it measures between spec from the instructions. If it does not that is your problem. If it does take it out and make sure all pins feely move in their holes...

Mileage gain, don't count on it. I saw no improvement to mileage whatsover after I installed the kit on my Jeep. As far as drivetrain wear, Im sure it helps, but my stock front end with 150,000 miles looked pretty good when I tore it apart. The real gain I see is the lockouts on each...

You can replace your unit bearings 5 times or more and still have paid less then the hub conversion. Like others have said make sure the axle nuts are torqued properly. Timken is as good as anything else out there.

Post a picture if your still worried. Should be able to tell what they are.

It probably lost some strength but since people are breaking the brackets before doing damage to the knuckle its most likely not a problem. Theres no issue drilling and tapping ductile iron. I will also add that the welding can be done but it will take some experience.

Please dont disassemble the unit again unless you have other reasons too. The inherent problem with the helical gear design is the fact that it needs some available torque to bias. As you mention with no preload the unit will spin by hand. That same unit will also let you down offroad when...