Recent content by TacticalFats

Necro bump. I was searching for another issue I'm having and was annoyed that people rarely post what fixed their problem. I added a second bottle of modifier to the rear and it resolved the issue. I just put this back on the road after sitting in my garage all summer and I noticed it's doing...

Fresh friction modifier cured this for me.

Being it's a 2001, both the thermometer and the speaker are probably because your cylinder head is cracked.

Did a fluid change. From the looks of it, the turd that said he did the change for me back in late 08/early 09, didn't. I put in the standard weight (not the heavier weight that's specified for towing) and friction modifier. Seems a bit quieter; I'll know after the next trip down to my trailer...

Ive had the same problem on a 97. Check the hard plastic line that runs along the left side of the engine compartment. Its black and about the width of a pencil. Mine rubbed against the corner of the battery (which sits cockeyed in there) till a hole wore in it. Spliced I'm some fuel line and...

After a long, straight run is when it does it. Loading the rear as you described won't duplicate the issue. I drove ~20 miles on a fairly straight road at about 50mph which ended at a t intersection. I stopped and made a right turn. Upon starting, it sounded like the rear diff was "breaking...

Bump. I haven't put many miles on this thing (it's at 57k now), and it still does it, even on short trips. Like the rear slips slightly, with a rumble. Thoughts? Sent using the Tapatalk app on my Droid X...

Do the coolant flush.

I have about 2 years, 15k on a Bosch pump. It looks like it's weeping ever so slightly...

Re: very poor fuel milage My stock 97 has a 12.6 mpg average over 24 fill ups, almost all suburban driving. I feel your pain.

I've used rubber fuel line in the past for a vac line.

There's an easy way to wire in a small switch to bypass this 'feature'. I generally use the floor/defrost setting all winter and hate to have the compressor, et al, accumulating wear and tear. I will cycle everything occasionally, though. When it's *really* cold, I'll use the AC max/recirc...

Hit NAPA tomorrow morning (or call them). You'll have it that afternoon. I've done 3-4 radiators in XJs/YJs...takes maybe an hour. Buy new clamps if they're OEM. I've rebuild the cooling systems (rad, t-stat, hoses, fan clutch, water pump, belt, coolant) each time I aquire a "new" jeep. Less...

I can almost guarantee it's that pressure switch on top of the accumulator (the propane tank looking thing on the left, towards the firewall). It's pretty cheap and takes literally 2 minutes to swap out.

What store is this? I'd get the 'severe duty' part whenever I could. When I replaced my WP in my last XJ, they didn't mention that. Hell, my XJ is a police package so it may actually supposed to get it.