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Yes it is possible to use it on as thick of material as you want if you understand how drill speed and feed rate play into tooling life.
Tooling 101 (simplified): The larger the diameter of the tool, the slower the tool needs to be spun to cut the chip load it was designed to cut. So the...
I sometimes have a hard time switching between surfing (more like skimming) and reading for content. Sorry.
I think the same concept applies to the control arms though. The formed arms are designed to be strong for what they are - thin sheet metal designed for driving only. They were never...
The factory mounts are designed to twist and/or flex? I think you're mistaken. What I think they are is as thin (cheap) as they can possibly be without failing under normal driving conditions. If you look at them you'll notice that the edges distant from the axle tube are rolled on them making...
The most important thing is to have the vehicle correctly supported and on jack stands. Then all is good. If you're messing around down there without supporting the vehicle bad things could happen. Support the vehicle 2" behind the Lower Control Arm mounts on the chassis side. Use jack...
Pancake compressors can be had for $150 and will work well for small jobs. Best for nailers.
Small upright/laydown compressors are good middle of the road compressors but may struggle with some air tools. They'll work for removing lug nuts and doing basic vehicle work. They'll run quite often...
For benders and dies:
If you like cages or bumpers, you'll probably want a 1 3/4" die in the 6.5" to 7" radius range. That would be my first die set. The second would likely be 1 1/2" tube in the smallest radius offered. With these two you can build just about anything.
As for a bender...
When considering a 220 machine over a 110 machine, you should really look at two factors.
First is Duty Cycle: 110 machines can be used to weld cages. I've done it personally and it's slow going. You weld until the machine essentially shuts down and then you wait until it cools off before you...
There appears to be quite a few questions regarding the use of our truss as well. All of T&T Customs’ differential trusses are designed to work with both factory and aftermarket suspension systems. Any kit that can be mounted to the factory brackets can be used with our trusses not just the ones...
Once the material was removed, the control arm bracket could be easily welded where it is supposed to be located. No tape measure is necessary to locate this bracket. The inside tab should be perfectly lined up under the inside of the coil bucket on either side and the top of the tab should be...
Once the angle of the ¾ Ton Dana 44 Truss, your coil buckets, upper control arm mounts, and trac-bar bracket (if requested) are already installed on the truss for you and no additional welding, measuring, or angle finding are necessary. The last part of the equation is locating the lower control...
This time a single pass removes all of the material necessary.
With both of the spring pads out of the way, dropping the truss onto the housing takes only a second. It may be necessary to use a flapper/grinder disk to make slight modifications to the driver’s side if you cannot get the...
The same process will be repeated in the rear. Measure in on both of the ears 1.25” and mark the top of the casting. You are going to remove the two ears completely but it is unnecessary to remove any more if you don’t want/need to.
Mark a line on the back at the root of both ears. And on the...
There are a few ways you could remove this material but, by far, the easiest is to use a cut-off wheel and a steady hand. Follow the illustrations below.
On the outside of the casting, make a dot ½” down from your top line. Now connect your face and top lines to the dot you just made. This is the material you are going to remove.
The measurements of this ear are as follows. On the front, measure down on either side of the face (front side) 7/8” and mark a line. On the top, measure in 9/16” in and mark your line.